Don Alfonso 1890 - Reloaded

-
Chef Ernesto Iaccarino
A couple of weeks ago, I found myself seated at one of my favorite tables in the world.  The one next to the window, with the perfect lighting, with a clear view of the kitchen, of Chef Ernesto Iaccarino and the staff of Don Alfonso 1890.  I decided to have an end of season lunch and chat with the entire team before they head off to various places around the globe before reopening next spring.
After a sip or two of spumante, I glanced over the menu.  Many items I recognized and instantly I got a feeling of nostalgia.  Several had special memories for me for various reasons so I thought that it would be neat to try them again...My version of a Don Alfonso 1890 - Reloaded...

I reloaded a few dishes from my visit back in the spring of 2011.  Has it really been that long?  Deep fried lobster with a sweet and sour sauce, a dip of citrus fruit, and a julienne of spring vegetables. It was just as I remembered...no, the batter was much lighter, letting the lobster take center stage....

Then there was, what I described back then as smoked Mediterranean yellow tail. The light pink color of the fish enjoyed its contrast with the colors of the sauces on the side; wild orange, and a fennel seed and grapefruit mayonnaise. 

Trying it again, it brought back old memories, new sensations...new memories...

Then I reloaded a favorite from the spring of  2012.  One that I wrote about here and here...
Tre baci-three kisses from the chef...
Back then I described it in this manner... A pasta dish that wasn't pasta, but thinly sliced squid stuffed with fresh fish.  A sprinkling of curry...a bed of basil.

This time I noticed the same smooth squid 'pasta', less spices, but power packed with clams instead of fresh fish.  A testimony to the chef's desire to use what is fresh and available that day, that moment.

But my visit was also a chance to try somethings that I haven't tried before...such as
an arancini appetizer, a fried rice ball  with clams, mussels and a bottarga sauce...


pumpkin gnocchetto with truffles, fried leeks, and sausage...

Pasta?  I skipped on the spaghetti, though it was tempting, and tried this dish.  Paccheri di Gragnano pasta cacio and pepe style...

Also a flavorful tomato soup with marinated palamita, capers and green olives.  New to me, but the 20103 a re visitation of a Don Alfonso 1890 dish...

Did I mention the wines?  No reloaded here, since sommelier Maurizio Cerio is very attentive in educating me on the wines and spirits of the world...
For my appetizers... Derbusco Cives Franciacorta Brut 2007


My lunch... La Creatura 2003, Andi Fausto  


My desserts...Single Malt Whisey Caperdonich 1966

Desserts...the usual splendid array of piccoli pastries...starring a pink and green macaroon that made me smile...

Pink and green....like the dining room's interior.  A piccolo reminder of a special afternoon spent at Don Alfonso 1890.  An afternoon reloaded...

Ci vediamo nella primavera I told theChef Iaccarino as  I left.  I was already curios about what would come out of the kitchen next March.  What influences he would pick up from his time in Dubai as Don Alfonso 1890 opens up yet another restaurant?
We'll just have to wait...



Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Welcome to My Home - Lunch at Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa with Chef Peppe Guida

-
Image
I've lost count as to how many times I have seen Chef Peppe Guida since we met for the first time last April .  On every occasion, from dinners at Pastifcio dei Campi to visits to Marina Yacht Club , we always ended our conversations agreeing that I needed to visit him a casa sua ...his home, his restaurant, Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa in Vico Equense (Na). I chose a Saturday afternoon to visit the chef's home, which really was just that...a home.  A renovated house dating back to the 17th century.  Chef Guida took me on a little tour pointing out where the pizza oven used to be, for example, which now is a small corner intimate dining room/wine cellar.  My eyes, however, were drawn to the family room where among antique furniture and plants hanging from the ceiling was a comfortable couch. I sat down for a while to relax,  discuss the latest news from Napoli, and talk about Guida's menu over a glass of spumante and a soft warm slice of casatiello with walnuts.  M
Read more

La Scarpetta, Pepe in Grani, Caiazzo (Ce)

-
Image
Scarpetta. ..the word alone makes one's taste buds jump for joy.  Scarpetta, little shoe, is an act of love at the end of a meal. A show of respect and admiration performedw ith a piece of great bread and the remnants of a fantastic sauce left on the plate at the end a a course. That is the spirit behind Franco Pepe' s latest pizza - La Scarpetta.   Pepe's soft pizza dough paired with an amazing ragu tomato sauce.  For the sauce, Pepe chose three tomato varieties and slow cooked them so that they fused together to make an incredible tomato sauce. This sauce is not cooked in the oven with the pizza dough, but added on top afterwards.  Then a couple of shavings of Grana Padano cheese (aged 12 and 24 months) Just one more taste of happiness courtesy of Pepe in Grani.. .
Read more

The Trailer for Episode 1 of "In the Kitchen Campania" is Out Featuring Chef Luigi Coppola of Casa Coloni, Paestum (Sa)

-
Image
If you're a foodie, then "In the Kitchen Campania" is the perfect show to satisfy your cravings. This upcoming culinary series will feature some of the most talented chefs in the Campania region of Italy and is a celebration of the rich flavors and traditions of Italian cuisine.    You won't want to miss Chef Luigi Coppola of Casa Coloni Restaurant in this episode, which premieres on my YouTube channel on January 30th .  Be sure to save the date, watch the trailer, and subscribe to our channel to stay up-to-date with all the latest culinary excitement.  Ci vediamo in the kitchen!
Read more