Wine and the Vespa - Vineyard Hopping with Wine and the City

Twenty years in Naples and I had never ridden a Vespa.  Sure over the years I'd admired those who weave in and out of traffic with ease, even shaken my fist at a few who had gotten too close for comfort.  But driven one myself? No.
So when my eyes glanced over the latest Wine and The City program scheduled in Naples in May, my eyes hit an event that I thought was assai interesting...assai assai.
Wine and the Vespa - a tour through Posillipo's vineyards.  Vineyards on a Vespa?  Too cool to pass up.  I made a reservation subito.

Piazza Trieste e Trento, Saturday 18 May, 0930 am.  That was my appointment time with NapolInVespa Tour, a group of enthusiastic young Neapolitans who love their city and are ready to show off its beauty to whoever is ready and willing to hop on the back of a Vespa.
That morning there were about 14 in our group.  And after donning our mandatory helmets, we were on our way.  First stop, Mergellina for a brief history lesson on the town of Posillipo, Mergellina, and even a little Campi Flegrei to help us orient ourselves.  Then back on the bikes to head through hidden alleyways, tight narrow vicos with jaw dropping views as we head our way to Posillipo for a quick apertif.  A Falanghina Spumante brut by Cantine Federiciane Monteleone.  We paired it with a fantastic view of the Gulf of Naples and Mt Vesuvius.
But the vineyards?

Back on the bikes-direction Azienda Agricola Varriale in the heart of Posillipo tucked behind one of Naples' top restaurants Rosiello.  Waiting for us was Salvatore Varriale to share with us what his part of the citta' has to offer.  The small winery produces wines from the areas native grapes;  primarily falanghina and piedirosso. The sun beat down on us pretty hard as we strolled the vineyards.  This gave us a perfect idea of what the vines go through throughout the day, evolving in the fertile volcanic soil.
We tasted two wines that morning, each a falanghina.  Marechiaro  Campi Flegrei DOC Falanghina 2012 and Monte Coroglio Falanghina IGP Campania 2012 (late harvest). Two enticing expressions of the grape variety from this volcanic part of Campania.  Two wines to try again when I had a little more time, maybe along with their piedirosso, their rose' and finish off with a grappa in the family restaurant up the hill.
Back onto our Vespas for a whirlwind tour of an area that is a little of the beaten tourist path.  We visited the Chiesa S. Strato in Posillipo and the surrounding alleys.  It felt a moment as if we were visiting a small fishing village on one of the nearby islands instead of a neighborhood a stone throw from one of Southern Italy's largest cities.
I guess that is what is beautiful about la mia citta'.  Full of surprises - all waiting to be discovered on the back of a Vespa!

Greco and Fiano in Black and White - BianchIrpinia 2013

Cold and rainy.  Not yet icy.  That was the weather that  met me on the road to BianchIrpinia 2013 that late Friday afternoon.  If all went well, I'd have enough time to taste some of the latest vintages of Greco di Tufo.
Yes, I was ready for a wine tasting on the run weekend where I would trade in my rubber boots which accompanied me in the vineyards for a pair of black leather ones better suited for the conference room in Mercogliano (Av), the venue chosen for Miriade & Partners BianchIrpina.
Greco- una bella bestia - as journalist Paolo De Cristofaro calls it affectionately.  Certo, certainly not a wine that wishes to impress with intense flowery aromas. In fact, I wondered a few weeks later, is it a wine that wishes to impress at all?  And if it does, who?  Tasting the 2012 editions a year after the harvest is an interesting point in a young Grecos life.  I say young because Greco  a white which antsy in the vineyard more still in the cantina, desires time to express itself.  It's particular, genuine, distinct. And as long as that is understood while tasting, then it makes what you have in the glass easier to appreciate.
So I tried quite a few Greco Di Tufos from familiar vineyards and wineries curious to see what this varietal which thrives in its minerality and acidity would have for me that November afternoon.  I didn't have time to try them all, so I decided to check out a few that caught my curiosity on the tasting list.  Wineries such as Di Prisco, Cantine Caggiano, Donnachiara, Di Meo, I Favati, Molettieri, Vesevo and Terredora stood out for me that afternoon with a silent promise to try again in a few months.

Quick tasting over just in time to prepare for a retrospective wine tasting of some of the older vintages.  Seven wines were on the table for us to try.    A Greco tasting with seven offerings from the 2008 and 2003 vintage.  Seven wines seems a small amount, but considering the small quantity of wineries who have held on to their earlier vintages, I looked at it as an honor to have a chance to open these wines and discuss them in a room full of journalist, bloggers, winemakers and producers.

I was served six from the 2008 vintage from Cantine Dell'Angelo, Di Prisco, Ferrara Bebito, Mastroberardino, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe, and Traerte. Exciting to note the freshness and sapidity of a Campania white once though to only be valid during its particular vintage year.  In the end, Pietracupa's 2003 which had the responsibility, for lack of a better word, to represent the vintage year...all alone.  A vintage year which wasn't as powerful as 2008. I though about that as I packed up my things to go.  It was late, and Saturday morning I was eager to try a few Fianos.

 Outside the temperature had dropped a few degrees, but I found a warm spot in the front row to try 40 or so Fiano di Avellinos that Saturday morning.  A Fiano tasting takes you on a different type of journey in respect to a Greco one.  If Greco was the beast...then here is beauty.  That doesn't mean it is an easy wine.  Fiano, at least the ones that stand out for me,  can be just as complex, strong headed and feisty.  Wines that want to wait a little longer in the vat...a little longer in the bottle before being released.  And luckily more and more wineries agree.  Highlights of my morning beginning with the 2012 Fiano di Avellino DOPs from  Cantina Del Barone, San Paolo (Montefredane) , Vigne Guadagno, Mastroberardino (Radici), Contrada Michele and Fonzone Caccese.  Pietracupa, Terredora (Terre di Dora) , Colli di Castelfranci and Caggiano.  I then passed on to the 2011s and 2010 with impressive performances from Molettieri Salvatore (Apianum), Rocca Del Principe, Villa Diamante, I Favati (Pietramara Etichetta Bianca). In the Campania Fiano DOP category - Zampaglione Pierluigi with not only his 2011 but his 2010 as well as Fonzone's Irpinia Fiano Sequoia 2011.

Then as soon as it began, my BianchIripina was over.  This year it was quick, short, but still sweet.  A tasting that left me with questions, comments, and curiosities.   On my way back to Naples, the temperature continued to drop.  Snow started to fall. I said goodbye to this now more than ever bianchirpinia.  I'd be back...but next time, not with black leather boots. But with my familiar rubber ones...perfect for the vineyards and cantinas.

Sophia and Sirch - "Gli Amici" di Feudi di San Gregorio-Wine Tasting on the Run

As I mentioned in my last post, I had only a few hours at VitignoItalia a few weeks ago.  My mission, per se, was to taste wines that I hadn't tried before...or hadn't tried in a long time.  There was a stand, though, that I couldn't pass up.  One that has made me feel part of their large family every time I visit them in their winery, stop by their Michelin star restaurant Marenna', or see them on the road.  Feudi di San Gregorio.  I stopped by to say hello to familiar faces such as my maestro/amico Alessandro Palmieri, my sommelier course classmate Carmine Di Costanzo, and of course the ever smiling Antonio Fiore who was pouring that afternoon.  I asked Fiore for something new to me.  A white wine or two that I hadn't tried.  Was there something? I wondered.
Fiore reached into the ice bucket and pulled out a bottle .  A wine produced by Azienda Basilisco in the Basilicata region which Feudi di San Gregorio acquired a couple of years ago.  Bravo, Antonio.  I thought. This one I hadn't tasted, and I was very curious of the Fiano, Traminer, and Malvasia blend that I was about to try.  I introduced myself to Sophia Basilicata Bianca IGP 2011.  Sophia with her lightly intense and interesting aromas of fresh fruit that greeted me in that medieval Neapolitan castle that early afternoon.  Fresh. Friendly.  Flavorful.

Time to move on.
My eyes caught a few labels with a familiar name.  Sirch.  From Azienda Agricola Sirch from the Fruili Venezia Giulia region.  What were these wines ding at the Feudi stand?  Well, this winery is the brainchild of Feudi's agronomist and general manager Pierpaolo Sirch.  I'm a big fan of Sirch, so I was excited to get the chance to taste his wines made up north.  I quickly tried three of the whites.  The 2012 vintages of Sauvignon...

Ribolla Gialla...

and Malvasia...

Each wine was an excellent representation of the variety.  My amico Di Costanzo and I discussed this for awhile.  The Sauvignon tasted like a Sauvignon.  Ribolla Gialla a Ribolla Gialla.  Malvasia...the same.  And that's what you want when you open a bottle of white.  You want to degustare, taste, the grape variety...the territory.  You don't want extras.  At least I don't.  And sure, these were different than the whites that Sirch works with when he is in the southern vineyards in Sorbo Serpico at Feudi di San Gregorio.  And they should be.
That afternoon my wine tasting on the run was not only a time to catch up with old friends....it was also a time to meet new ones...
Sophia and Sirch...

Cantine Olivella -Sant'Anastasia (Na)- Wine Tasting on the Run

I was degustando that Sunday.  Wine tasting in  downtown Napoli during the 9th edition of VitignoItalia 2013  held in  the picturesque medieval Castel del"Ovo.  I didn't have a lot of time, so when I entered Sala B, I headed right towards a familiar face, smile, and winery. Angela Giordana and Cantine Olivella.  It's been awhile since I had a chance to talk with gli amici from Sant'Anastasia.  I was curious about the new vintage, particularly the whites.   Like their Lacrimabianco Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco D.O.CC. made from Caprettone and Catalanesco grapes grown in  rich vulcanic soil.  I began my degustazione noticing the light straw yellow color, the light white floral aromas.  Then I tasted.  Full, sapid, flavorful.  Flavorful?  Fantastic...with a nice finish.

Lacrimabianco 2012

I didn't have a lot of time, so I asked Angela to pour me the next white.   Emblema Vesuvio Bianco D.O.C 2012 produced with 100% Caprettone.  Caprettone (related to Coda di Volpe) really shows its potential in this wine.  The color is deeper, aromas are fresh herbal.  But as I took a first sip, a second, I then went for the third.  Impressed with the fullness, the smoothness, the flavor.  Wine pairing possibilities are endless.  Especially for warm summer  fish based appetizers or the whole meal for that matter.

Emblema 2012

Sadly time to move on.  I had time for one more white wine during my wine tasting on the run.  Angela poured me a wine that I knew well.   Kata' IGT Catalanesca del Monte Somma 2012.  Catalanesco 100%.  I observed closely as Angela poured.  It was hard not to be reminded of  my son and I helping out during their 2010 harvest. My first harvest.  Nose to the glass...a mix of young fruit and white florals.  My palate enjoyed the morbidezza-smoothness.  The flavors.  The full body.  The nice long finish.

Kata' 2012

One that I lingered on as Angela asked me if I wanted to try something else.  Their new reds such as Vipt Vesuvio Rosso DOC produced with 100 % Piedirosso.  Or maybe their Lacrimanero Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio D.O.C. with a blend of Piedirosso, Aglianico, Olivella.   Or maybe, since I enjoyed their Kata',surely I would be curious to try their VO Passito di IGT Catalanesca del Monte Somma.  
I was curious.  I wanted to try them all.  But I was wine tasting on the run. Which meant just one thing.  I need to schedule a Vineyard Hopping to Sant'Anastasia...and soon.
By the way, on my way out of the fair, I discovered that Cantine Olivella won two awards during the fair.  Premio Speciale per i Giovane:  Ciro Giordano  and the Medaglia D'Oro (Gold Medal) per i Bianchi for Emblema...
Congratulations!!