Wineries to Watch - Lunch with VITI in Cesinali (Av)

Wine maker Luigi Sarno, Cantina del Barone, asked me if I wished to join him for a quick lunch before heading back home.  It was around lunchtime, his mom had just prepared a risotto with porcini mushrooms, and so I thought -why not?  Lunch with the wine maker is a perfect opportunity to try their wines where they  perform at their best; At the table, paired with local specialties.  And this would be a perfect opportunity to see how Sarno's Fiano di Avellino Particella 928 would stand up at lunch.  But Sarno had other ideas.  Sure, he opened a bottle of his wine, but at the table, there were two other bottles from two other wineries as well.  You see, two years ago,  Cantina del Barone along with Cantine Dell'Angelo and Il Cancelliere decided to come together under one umbrella and form a small coalition... an alliance.  A union that would stand strong during the various wine fairs and wine tastings that can take a toll on small wineries in terms of costs and time.  A union that would focus on the strengths of each winery, therefore highlighting the strength of the territory. A union named VITI - which in English means vines.

Back to the table, back to Sarno, who decided to open up his latest Particella 928 Fiano di Avellino 928 IGP 2012.  Probably one of the most interesting Fianos that I have tried in a long time.  Fiano.  That's what does Cantina del Barone does. Punto e basta.
The meal continued, Sarno opened up another bottle of wine.  this time a Greco di Tufo from Cantine Dell'Angelo.  Sticking with vintage 2012, we went for the cru Torrefavale Greco di Tufo DOP 2012.  As I tasted, I was instantly brought back to a visit with the owner of the winery, Angelo Muto and Luigi Sarno (his enologist).  To reach the vineyard that produces this wine, we needed a jeep and a prayer.   An elegant expression of the cantina's Greco di Tufo  which is known for its sharp nose and palate.

The next wine was the only red of the VITI trio.  An Aglianico from Il Cancelliere.  Sarno tasted first, sharing with me that this wine; Campania Aglianico IGP 2012, an Aglianico that doesn't touch any wood whatsoever is, well,  a tasty bomba.  15 % alcohol content.  Wow...
I listened, I tasted.  I thought back to a visit to Montemarano where the winery is located back in, well, back in, well, back in 2012.

One lunch.  Three wines.  Three wineries.
I appreciated that. Not only because I had an opportunity to taste three reflections of Irpinia, but I had an occasion to see how a territory can work and grow together, from a small kitchen table in a small town to a large international wine fair.

Viva VIVIT.

Cantina del Barone
Cesinali (Av)

Cantina Dell'Angelo
Tufo (Av)

Il Cancelliere
Montemarano (Av)

Andiamotrips Auld Lang Syne - My Top Eno-gastronamic Adventures in 2014 - Part 1

January has always been a month for many to not only think of new resolutions for the upcoming year, but to look back on the last 12 months.
I decided to do both - beginning with a look back on some awesome memories from 2014. Where do I begin?  There was quite a bit going on...
Like my Snapshot series which is basically a fusion of my photography, wine tastings, and dinners.  In 2014, I managed to put together 4 different photo exhibits throughout Campania.
Here's a look back:

January 2014 -  Snapshot of a Territory with Cantina Di Meo and Chef Gianluca D'Agostino at Veritas Restaurant.

My first snapshot of the year focused on Fiano di Avellino.  The photos from this exhibit focused on two memorable visits with winemaker Roberto di Meo during the 2013 harvest period in Salza Irpina (Av).  I thought it would be pretty neat to team up his wines with Chef D'Agostino's menu.  A chef who though lives in Naples, has strong ties with Irpinia.  Memorable moments? The chef's squid with creamy cauliflower and the 'world premiere' of Di Meo's Selezione Erminia Di Meo Fiano di Avellino DOC 2000.

June 2014 - Snapshot of a Territory with Mastroberardino Winery and Chef Roberta Alloca at Relais Blu.

  My next snapshot was a look back at nearly 4 years of vineyard hopping.  I pulled together photos of my visit to the various Fiano, Falanghina  and Greco vineyards belonging to the Mastrobeardino Winery.  I thought it would be neat to taste their wines alongside Piero Mastrobeardino at Relais Blu - a restaurant with one of the most spectacular sunsets in Campania.  I also knew that Chef Roberto Allocca dishes would match up perfectly.  Memorable moments? A glass of Morabianca Falanghina 2013 alongside amazing appetizers. Seeing my photos displayed throughout Relais Blu wasn't so shabby, either. :-)

June 2014 - Snapshot of a Territory - Falerno Del Massico with Villa Matilde, Az. Agricola Gennaro Papa, Masseria Felicia, and Viticoltori Migliozzi.

This was a exhibit put together with photos taken during March of 2014.  An exhibit that took me to a territory outside of my comfort zone. Outside of my zone primarily because I visited wineries that I had never been to before in my vineyard hopping adventures.  These wineries are located in the Caserta province.  I visited Aglianico and Primitivo vineyards and tasted wines that deserve to be discussed at length.  And thanks to Villa Matilde and the Confraternita del Falerno, on June 20th I was able to display my black and white snapshots at a dinner with about 80 guests.  Memorable moments?  Sharing the spotlight with four different wineries while tasting some amazing reds.

August 2014 - Snapshot of a Territory - Il Fiano di Montefredane with Villa Diamante, Pietracupa, and Vadieaperti/Traerte. 

 Back to what many believe is my first love - in version bianco.  Fiano di Avellino.  When I was asked to participate in WIne Fredane, Third Edition in some capacity or another, I believed the best way would be to put together another photo exhibit focusing on the three wineries that are located in the small community of Montefredane in Avellino.  Memorable moments?  My snapshots displayed on the lawn of Tenuta Ippocrate.  A wine tasting featuring older vintages of Fiano di Avellino going back as far as 1993.

As I look back on Snapshot, I can't help to get excited about what's ahead...
Stay tuned...

Vineyard Hopping - Montefredane (Av) - Az. Vinicola Traerte

It was raining that Saturday morning.  Saturday, November 16th.  A light cold chilly rain that had decided to visit the Campania region for the previous few days.  So we, Raffaele Troisi and I, decided to have quick caffe' to take the chill off at Bar Moccia, our meeting point 5 minutes from the autostrade exit, before heading to his winery in Montefredane, Avellino.
Raffaele Troise, a man who I had the pleasure of meeting a few years ago at a dinner with friends  Troise, one of Campania's best known bianchisti...white wine makers with a history along and rich in tradition with their winery Vadiaperte, then most recently Az. Vinicola Traerte.
I followed Troise over a railroad track, up a winding street, to his little piece of wet paradise in Montefredane.  The rain had let up temporarily, so he thought best that we get our vineyard hop on before the skies decided to change its mind.
Montefredane.  Rainboots on.  Necessary for this clayey/terracotta soil that had become almost impossible to trudge through during our quick walk through the vineyards.  I could only imagine the difficulty a tractor would have.  The harvest, per fortuna, was completed already.  Muddy was an understatement.  Troise held up a handful of terrain and squeezed a little into a ball.  From that moment on, the phrase 'clayey soil' will have this image in my mind.

Raffaele Troisi

Troisi took me on a whirlwind tour as he watched the skies out of the corner of his eye.  First, an Aglianico vine, historical, still hosting a few bunches of Aglianico grapes which were on their way to becoming a dessert wine.  Troisi told me that his father remembers this vine...it was around when he was a kid.
We continued...towards Greco di Tufo vines which are at least 30 years old.  Fiano di Avellino...vines which were 2 meters apart, 70 years old.  A few snapshots, a quick conversation, the Raffaele suggested we head back to the winery before the threatening downpour.

At first disappointed,  but then I noticed Raffaele was leading me towards the stainless steel vats that housed his wines that had been harvested not so long ago.  With two wine glasses and a smile, he led me the first vat- a Falanghina from Torrecusco (Bn) which had been harvested on the 10th of October.
Then on to Coda di Volpe.  Coda di Volpe from two different territories. Torenocelle (Av) where the terrain is clayey...whre I should expect a higher acidity in the glass...

Then a second taste from another vat, Coda di Volpe but from Pietradefusi (Av)...where the acidity is a little more constant.  Perfect for his cru- Torama which I would try a little while later.
Next, a taste of his Fiano from Montefredane...vat #11, a particular selection for his cru packed with freshness, herbal aromas.
Then vat #5...aromas and flavors that whispered stay tuned...
Next- Greco di Tufo...first form Montefredane -fuori zona- for the DOCG, then vat # 2.  Vat # 2 contained Troisi's Greco from Montefusco.  Montefusco- I couldn't help but think back to a vineyard visit there few years back, with Troisi himself, a glass of Greco in my right hand...

This time, however, I was holding a glass of Greco which was turbid-thick- still fermenting.  A glass that would keep us company for the rest of that early morning.
Rain.  Not heavy, but steady...so we decided to leave the vats, and head towards the comfortable wine tasting room where we could open a few bottles and explore the latest bottled vintage -2012.
We started off with what was surprise for me.  Traerte's Coda di Volpe sparkling style.  So new that a label hadn;t been designed yet.  In the bottle for a little over a week. The first time for Raffaele Troisi- a bella esperienza, he told me...but already has in mind what he would like to adjust next vintage, he shared over a glass with a perlage that just didin't want to stop.  1,200 bottles - 5 magnums - coming soon.
Why not continue with Coda di Volpe.  Coda di Volpe Irpinia 2012  to be exact...A tasting of Troisi's base whites- each with a personality all their own, representing the vintage, the territory...
Fiano di Avellino 2012, Greco di Tufo 2012...

Then the crus-a mini vertical of Torama...vintages 2011 (the first) and 2012.  2012, recently awarded 5 Grappoli form Bibenda Magazine-the first for any Coda di Volpe...ever.

Next, Aipierti Fiano di Avellino 2012. It's freshness/acidity of this vintage was a bellissimo contrast to the next glass Troisi wanted me to try.  Aipiert Fiano di Avellino 2008.  A vintage important and special to him.  A glass of wine which shred a mature aroma in the glass, smoother sensations on the palate.
Next, Tornante Greco di Tufo 2012.  This Greco produced from the territory that I had walked/slipped/slid in earlier.

Troisi wanted me to try one more wine before our little get together was over.  At this point, he broke out a little cheese-caciocavallo from Calitri (aged 6 months) to be exact to share with a glass of Aglianico 2010 from vineyards in Venticano, a stones throw from Taurasi.  A red that sees no wood-only stainless steel.  Still holding on to those Aglianico tannins that we know and love so well.
We continued to taste, continued to chat, when I noticed the clock o the wall.  Amazed at how much time had passed.  Knowing full and well that sooner, and not later, I would have to go back into the chilly November rain, head back down the winding road, over the railroad track, past Bar Moccia before hitting the autostrade-direzione casa.
But at least now the chilliness that had met me in Montefredane a few hours earlier had melted.
Thanks to Raffaele Troisi...

 Az. Vinicola Traerte
Contrada Vadiaperti 
Montefredane (AV) 83030 
0039 0825 582080