Andiamo to Fontanelle: Naples’ Most Mysterious Site Reopens This April

 

After nearly six years of restoration, the tuff-stone heart of Naples is beating again. On April 18th, the Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Fontanelle Cemetery) officially reopens its gates. While I haven't visited yet, I’ve long been fascinated by its haunting history and the unique folklore that makes it the soul of the city.

A City of Tuff and Bone

Located in the Rione Sanità district, this massive ossuary was carved into a Roman-era quarry. It became a burial site during the plague of 1656 and the cholera outbreaks of the 1830s. Eventually, it became the final home for the pezzentelli—the "pauper souls" of Naples.

The Cult of the "Anime Pezzentelle"

The Fontanelle is famous for the "cult of the skulls." In the 19th century, Neapolitans began "adopting" anonymous skulls (capuzzelle), cleaning them and placing them in wooden boxes. Devotees offered prayers and flowers in exchange for protection or guidance. Today, this tradition remains a powerful symbol of the Neapolitan relationship between the living and the dead.

Getting There: Metro & Transport

The cemetery is tucked away in the Sanità valley, but easily reachable via Metro:

• Materdei Station (Line 1): The best stop. It’s a 10–15 minute walk, mostly downhill.

• Museo (Line 1) / Cavour (Line 2): A 20-minute walk through the local markets.

How to Visit & Reserve Tickets

Access is now structured and booking is mandatory.

• Official Website: cimiterodellefontanelle.it

• Hours: Daily (except Wednesday), 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM.

• Tours: Choose between the official audio guide app or a guided tour with an expert.

• Languages: Available in both Italian and English.

A Personal Note

I’m visiting the Fontanelle later this month to see the restorations firsthand. There’s something moving about the silence of these caves—a place where the veil between worlds feels incredibly thin.

Stay tuned! I’ll post a detailed follow-up with photos and stories after my trip. If you’re in Naples this spring, don’t miss this hauntingly beautiful site.

For more hidden gems in Naples, follow along at Andiamotrips.

My E- Magazine is Out! Andiamotrips: The Next Stop

When I decided to create the series Andiamotrips:  The Next Stop, I knew that I wanted more than a blog or a few videos.  I wanted an e-magazine!  So that is why I am happy to announce that the first edition is online and it focuses on my 2 hour visit to Lacco Ameno in Ischia.  Check it out online here and let me know what you think. 

The Art of the "Slow" Island Hop: Why Lacco Ameno is Ischia’s Best Kept Secret

Two fantasticaaa islands in one day? It sounds like a whirlwind, doesn't it? But here’s the secret: to truly soak in that Mediterranean magic, you have to embrace the mantra of "less is more." Don't try to see everything. Instead, choose a few soulful activities, savor the local flavors, and just chill.

Last week, we talked about travel personas. Many of you said you couldn't pick just one—and I’m exactly the same! My persona usually reveals itself the moment I step onto the deck, and my recent SNAV adventure was no exception.

Setting Sail: Pro-Tips for the Journey

The forecast was perfect—not a cloud in sight. I boarded the SNAV hydrofoil, headed straight for the second floor, and snagged a front-row seat. We pulled out of Naples at 8:30 a.m., and I have a pro-tip for your next trip:

• Sit on the Right: For sweeping views of the Naples coastline.

• Sit on the Left: For the best first look at Procida and Casamicciola.

I chose the left, leaned back, and let the anticipation build.

9:30 AM: Landing in the Cradle of History

After a quick stop in Procida (stay on board—our time there comes later!), we docked in Casamicciola at 9:30 a.m. This gave me a perfect four-hour window to explore before the 2:00 p.m. return leg.

My first priority? Lacco Ameno. From the port, you can take a taxi or a bus, but since the weather was gorgeous, I opted for my own two feet. It’s a scenic 15-20 minute stroll to the right. The sidewalk is wide, the air is salty, and the views are simply breathtaking.

Why Lacco Ameno? Because this is where it all began. In the 8th century B.C., Euboean settlers landed here to establish Pithecusa, the very first colony of Magna Grecia. Long before the Roman Empire was even a thought, this bay was a bustling Mediterranean hub.

The Mushroom Rock & The "Rizzoli" Glamour

As you walk, you’ll see it rising from the waves: Il Fungo (The Mushroom Rock). This epic green tufa formation was spat out by a volcanic eruption centuries ago and eroded by the sea into its iconic shape. I took my time admiring it with a scoop of Gasparotto Gelato in hand—absolute bliss.

Next, I wandered onto Corso Angelo Rizzoli. This street is a dream for lovers of curated shopping. Ever since the mid-century "Rizzoli" era, Lacco Ameno has been a premier healing destination. You can't leave without browsing the local herbalists for volcanic mud masks and thermal spa creams—Ischia’s "Green Island" secret for eternal youth!

The Beating Heart: Piazza Santa Restituta

Eager for a bit of soul, I headed to the main piazza to visit the Basilica di Santa Restituta. It is easily one of the most beautiful churches on the island. As the sanctuary of Ischia’s patron saint, it holds a deep emotional weight you can feel the moment you step inside. If you visit in May, you’ll catch the vibrant festival that transforms the entire town into a celebration of faith and fire.

11:30 AM: The 3-Minute Hop

After two hours of perfect "slow" exploration, I hopped on the local EAV bus (I highly recommend downloading the app for easy tickets!) for a quick 3-minute ride back to Casamicciola. It was the perfect morning—a blend of history, indulgence, and sea air.

 A Special Treat for the Andiamotrips Community

Ready to plan your own "Two Islands in One Day" escape? I’ve partnered with SNAV to help you get there for less!

The Deal: 10% OFF your ticket

The Code: ANDIAMOTRIPS

Note: This exclusive code is only available for the first 10 travelers who book online by May 31, 2026. Act fast and say "Andiamo!"

[Book Your SNAV Adventure Here]

Your Lacco Ameno Travel Directory

Where to Eat & Drink:

• • Gasparotto Gelato

  • Forno Romeo da Elio

  • Onda Blu

  • Enoteca Antichi Sapori d'Ischia

  • Le Petit Cafè cocktail bar

  • Bar Isabella

  • Bar Franco

Where to Shop:

• • Nu' Poco e Ischia

  • Monti Artiginato

  • Sylvie Boutique

  • Naturalia

  • De Vivo Tessile

  • La Perla Nera

Must-Visit Cultural Stops:

• • Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae

  • Basilica di Santa Restituta

Stay tuned for my next post, where I’ll dive into how I spent my final hours in Casamicciola before heading over to Procida!

See you in the Piazza!

Andiamotrips: The Next Stop: Double the Magic, Half the Stress: Mastering the SNAV Island Hop

 

Procida

I developed "Andiamotrips: The Next Stop" to illustrate that the "commuter" lifestyle in Campania, Italy—the ferries, the quaint buses, the metro lines—goes beyond mere transportation. It embodies the very essence of the region.

My goal is to guide you in utilizing that infrastructure to uncover the true spirit of these locations. We’re not merely checking items off a list; we’re discovering the most breathtaking views, delectable bites, and captivating tales, all while navigating like a local who truly understands the area.

Honestly, it just felt right that the very first stop of this new series starts exactly where the heart of Campania beats loudest: Naples.

From the chaos and the coffee of the city, I’m pointing my compass toward two fantasticaaa islands—Ischia and Procida. If you’ve ever looked at a map of the Gulf and felt like you had to choose between the volcanic green peaks of one or the rainbow-colored alleys of the other, I’m here to tell you: don't choose. Do both.

The Secret Sauce: The "Double Island" Strategy

I’m thrilled that I found the SNAV "Two Islands in One Day" (Tour Ischia e Procida) circuit. This experience is essentially a high-speed "hop-on, hop-off" journey that embraces the Gulf as if it were one vibrant neighborhood. SNAV gets you there and you're free to do what you want between "hops."

• Morning: Napoli to Ischia (The lush, "Green Island")

• Afternoon: Ischia to Procida (The "Pastel Dream")

• Evening: Procida back to Napoli for sunset

The day begins in Casamicciola Terme. While everyone else is fighting the crowds at the main port, we’re stepping off into the island’s historic, thermal heart. It feels lived-in, authentic, and just a little bit magical.

From Casamicciola, I love walking or taking the bus over to Lacco Ameno. This is the "chic boutique" of the north coast. It’s smaller, more refined, and home to some of the most ancient history in Italy. Walking along the Corso Rizzoli with the sea on one side and high-end artisan shops on the other makes me feel like I've stepped onto a classic movie set. It’s where glamour meets the deep roots of the Mediterranean.

The Last Stop: Cinematic Procida

But the day doesn't end on the "Green Island." The last island stop is the cinematic dream of Procida. When I arrive here in the afternoon, the pace shifts again. It’s an island of pastel labyrinths and quiet fishing harbors. Ending the day here allows me to catch the golden hour as the sun hits the multicolored houses of Marina Corricella—a view that stays with me long after I'm back in the city.

Why Every Traveler Type Loves This Trip

Based on the mission of "The Next Stop," here is why I think you’ll fall in love with this itinerary, no matter your travel style:

• Il "Day-Trip Maximizer": You get the efficiency of two islands in one circuit without backtracking, hitting the "Fungo" in Lacco Ameno and Terra Murata in record time.

• Lo "Smart Commuter": Between the high-speed SNAV Wi-Fi and the "waterfront office" vibes of Casamicciola, your out-of-office reply has never looked better.

• L' "Authentic Soul Explorer": By landing in Casamicciola, you bypass the tourist traps and head straight for the mending nets and local potters.

• The "Gourmet Seeker": This trip is a flavor bridge. Start with a Cornetto Ischitano, grab a Zingara for lunch, and finish with a Lingua di Procida.

• The "History Hunter": You’re walking through 2,000 years of history, from the first Greek colony in Lacco Ameno to the revolutionary spirit of Garibaldi in Ischia.

• The "Social Butterfly": You’ll capture the ultimate "Golden Hour" shot at Marina Corricella—zero filters required.

• The "Sun-Drenched Dreamer": You get maximum "Vitamin Sea" with easy beach access just minutes from the SNAV docks.

Moving Like a Local

Casamicciola, Lacco Ameno, and Procida are all wonderfully walkable once you are in the heart of them, but the island bus system is incredibly convenient for jumping between spots.

The Transport Lowdown: On the Island

• The EAV Bus: Your lifeline here. For a seamless experience, I suggest downloading the Unico Campania App to purchase your digital tickets in advance.

• Line CD & CS: These are "Clockwise" and "Counter-clockwise" loops. A 5-minute ride gets you between Casamicciola and Lacco Ameno.

• Taxis: Certainly an option, but remember that Ischia is divided into different "Communes," and crossing boundaries can trigger higher tariffs.

Getting to the Naples Port (Molo Beverello):

• In Metro: Take Line 1 (the "Art Metro") to the Municipio stop.

• In Autobus/Tram: Several lines stop at Piazza Municipio / Molo Beverello, including the R2 and 151.

• In Auto: I recommend booking a spot in advance at a secure garage like Parcheggio Buono.

A Little Something for You

I want you to experience this fantasticaaa day for yourself! The original price of the SNAV trip is €40, but you can use my code ANDIAMOTRIPS when you book online for 10% OFF. It’s only for the first 10 people, so don't wait! You have to book by May 31, 2026, but you can set the travel date for whenever you're ready to go.

What’s Coming Next?

We’re just getting started! Stay tuned for more fantasticaaa tidbits and behind-the-scenes stories from my time in Ischia and Procida. I’m currently wrapping up the ultimate island companion: an amazing E-Guide that will dive even deeper into the hidden spots, best eats, and local secrets of the Gulf.

The next stop is always the best one. See you there!