Behind the Menu: The Story of Don Alfonso 1890's Culinary Evolution

Pork belly cooked at low temperature, sweet and sour sauce, chilli pepper, potato and carrot terrine

Recently, I had the opportunity to dine at Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant’Agata Sui Due Golfi, an iconic restaurant and boutique hotel in the Campania region near Sorrento. In a recent post, I mentioned that the restaurant closed for a season after 50 years to undergo significant structural renovations in pursuit of their dream of sustainability and a healthier planet for future generations.

Since 2011, I have been a loyal patron of Don Alfonso 1890, except during the COVID pandemic and restructuring periods. Every time I sit at the table and peruse the menu, I still feel excited. I was eager to discover Chef Ernesto Iaccarino's creations for Spring 2024.

Apart from an a la carte menu, the restaurant offers three tasting menus: La Tradizione/Traditional, Vegetariano/Vegetarian, and La Degustazione, which I opted for – a comprehensive menu featuring revamped signature dishes and new additions.

I shared my interview with Chef Iaccarino discussing his menu on my social media platforms in video format. Feel free to check them out here-

Part 1

Part 2

and Part 3

Personally, I'm looking forward to the summer- when their farm at Punta Campanella brings forth seasonal veggies like zucchini, eggplant and their prized tomatoes.

Are you with me??

Green Is the New Gourmet: How Don Alfonso 1890 is Redefining Sustainability in the Culinary World

Chef Ernesto Iaccarino
Don Alfonso 1890

Earth Day every day? You bet! That's the anthem of the Iaccarino family over at Don Alfonso 1890, nestled in the picturesque Sant'Agata Sui Due Golfi, a stone’s throw from Sorrento. Picture this: for half a century, these eco-warriors have been at the forefront of living sustainably. Their green initiatives even snagged them a coveted Green Michelin star, cozying right up next to the two Michelin stars their restaurant proudly flaunts. But hold the phone—by the end of 2022, they hit the pause button, deciding not to reopen for the 2023 season. Why? They set out on a mission to level up their green game even further. Yep, in a time when the hospitality world was just finding its feet after the pandemic, they made the bold move to forego not just business but those shiny Michelin stars too.

Fast forward to Spring 2024, and guess what? Don Alfonso 1890 is making a grand comeback. I got the scoop straight from Chef Ernesto Iaccarino, and let me tell you, their journey to being even greener is nothing short of epic.

So, here’s to making every day Earth Day, the Don Alfonso way! It's not just a motto; it's a lifestyle that’s paving the way for a greener, more sustainable world. And honestly, we’re all here for it. Welcome back, Don Alfonso 1890. We missed you, but we're totally digging your even greener vibe!

Ogni Piatto È Un Viaggio - Don Alfonso 1890, Sant'Agata Sui Due Golfi (Na)

I remember that Saturday, it was a Saturday similar to today -only a few months ago.  It was the beginning of Don Alfonso 1890's 2019 season, and like every year since 2011, I travelled the nearly 90 minute drive from my house to Sant'Agata Sui Due Golfi for lunch.  A visit to this 2 Michelin Star Restaurant is always a dazzling dining experience and after 8 years I can safely say that I have seen Chef Ernesto Iaccarino's cuisine embark on many awesome adventures.

Ogni piatto è un viaggio - every dish is a journey, Chef Iaccarino told me. 

Chef Ernesto Iaccarino

A journey led by Iaccarino, who shares with each diner his years of experience, travels, and flavors all combined in tasty dishes for each season.  That Saturday afternoon, one of those diners was me!

My journey began in the kitchen with a quick chit chat with the chef.  Would you like to try some of the new dishes for 2019?, he asked.  My smile was my response.

I tried many dishes that afternoon - these four, however, are the ones that I'd like to have stamped in my gastranomic passport.

This first course pasta dish, for example.  Iaccarino's fresh pasta filled with snapper marinated with lemons.  Underneath, a carrot cream with ginger and - wait for it - a spicy pumpkin broth.

Then Iaccarino brought me into his mondo del pesce- second course dishes that featured treasures from the sea.  Beginning with this cod dish.

 Cod cooked at low temperature served on top of a cauliflower cream,  black truffles, black olives and grilled leek.

Next, probably my favorite dish of the year, Iaccarino's dentice.  He cooks his grouper fish at a low temperature, vacuum sealed with lemon and vanilla. 

 Grouper is not an easy fish to cook - when fresh, it can be quite tenacious, firm. Iaccarino's cooking method helps to ease it up a bit - making it tasty and tender.  Then it is paired with Don Alfonso's famous creamy potatoes, lemon, and spring onions. His anchovy sauce zabaglione is fantasticaaa!

Another dish that I stamped in my passport Iaccarino's tuna with a black sesame seed crust.

This dish is a revisitation on his tuna from last year where he used pistachios.  Iaccarino chose to pair his tuna with 4 different types of sauces.

A red wine sauce, onion sauce, a sauce made with horseradish, and finally one with Italian parsely.

After my viaggio was over, I had a chance to sit down with Iaccarino.  This is always a magic moment.  A chance for me to chat with the chef about the meal and just about anything else that comes to mind as he relaxes between services with his cigar.  As he thinks about his next menu, his next season, his next viaggio.

I can't wait to taste it!

Amazing Appetizers, Don Alfonso 1890, Sant'Agata Sui Due Golfi (Na)

During my recent visit to Don Alfonso 1890, I was greeted with familiar smiles and these dishes featured in their Spring 2018 menu. Appetizers with 2 Michelin stars!!

Marinated red snapper cannoli in buffalo milk yogurt, lemon and chili peppers, like a ceviche, with white sesame sauce and spring vegetables. ( I told Chef Iaccarino that this was one of my dishes of the day)

And this creamy garlic soup with crab. Garlic lovers unite!!!!! (This dish reminded me of their classic tomato and crab soup from 2014)

Amazing!

Pollo Picnic - Don Alfonso 1890, Sant' Agata Sui DUe Golfi, (Na)

It has become a tradition – one that began 6 years ago.  A spring visit to the 2 starred Michelin Restaurant, Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant’Agata Sui Due Golfi to get a taste of what the new season has to offer.  A look at what Chef Ernesto Iaccarino has been working on over the last few months.  First stop, the kitchen to say hello to the chef, his brigade and have a quick chat.  A chat that included the journey at the table that Iaccarino had in mind for me that afternoon.

Karen, do you like chicken?  Organic chicken?  Do you think that you can eat an entire roasted one?

I looked at Iaccarino, smiled, and thought –A chicken challenge? Bring it on!

 

 I headed quickly to my table for my little private pollo  picnic that included –

Sauces prepared with Senise peppers (hot and spicy included)

One of the best mashed potatoes I have ever tasted!  Creamy smooth and seasoned with saffron.

A side salad featuring ingredients from the family farm in Punta Campanella.

And of course, that crunchy chicken that I had seen earlier in the kitchen.  Iaccarino’s organic chicken is served in two separate serving platters.

 First up, the chicken breast accompanied by a vinegar reduction sauce.

While I was picnicking on this plate, the chicken thighs and legs were in the under the broiler for a few minutes to complete their cooking time.

Then they also made their trip to my table.

After lunch, I spoke with the chef about my love affair with chicken.  Ever since I was a little girl chicken has been one of my favorite foods.  I could eat it every day.  Make sure you buy organic, Karen.  Iaccarino advised me.  It’s important. It may not be easy, but ask your butcher.

Or, maybe I could come back?  I thought with a smile.

My Fantastic Firsts for 2016

Looking back at 2016, I had the chance to try some fantastic first courses by some of the top chefs in Campania and beyond. I wrote about many but I'd like to highlight some of my favs.  

February 2016 
Chef Massimo Bottura , Osteria Francescana- There I tried two fantastic firsts - his pasta e fagioli

....and his classic crunchy part of the lasagna.

April 2016 
Chef Cristian Torsiello, Osteria Arbustico's spaghetti with roasted artichokes and tuna bottarga.

May 2016
Lunch on the beach, Osteria 1860 and Chef Antonio Tarfuro's  vermiciello cacio-cavallo and pepper and buffalo tartare on the side.

June 2016 

In June, I wrote about Chef Ernesto Iaccarino, Don Alfonso 1890 and his rice with scampi and caviar.  I still remember the fresh macedonia salad underneath.

I also had the chance to try an exciting risotto by Chef Salvatore La Ragione, Ristorante Mamma.  During Festa a Vico, he presented his risotto with mussel soup,  creamed garlic and oil.

Chef Alfonso Caputo, Taverno del Capitano and his  assaggino/ taste of spaghetti with zucchini and fresh shrimp.

Chef Nino Di Costanzo, Dani Maison -  rice, lemons (5 different varieties), zucchini, shrimp.  

risotto napoletano starring stuffed bell peppers.

Chef Domenico Stile, Enoteca La Torre - green bean pesto gnocchi, provolone del monaco fondue, marinated bonito.

July 2016

Chef Paolo Barrale, Marenna', and his black squid rice with thinly sliced cuttlefish...peas, coconut milk, oranges, and coriander.

Chef Lino Scarallo, Palazzo Petrucci - Potato gnocchi  with cappuccio cabbage,  oysters and lime.

August 2016

I enoyed a couple of dishes from Rossellini's presented by Chef Michele Deleo - The chef's Il Riso Acquerello/Acquerello Rice...

and his Pasta with Clams and "Arrabbiata' Sauce.  

November 2016

Chef Oliver Glowig, La Tavola, Il Vino, La Dispensa - risotto all'amatriciana.

December 2016

Chef Gennaro Esposito, Torre del Saracino - spaghetti with salted anchovies, squid and a creamy sauce from its fifth quarter, pistachio and lemon!

A fantastic year!