Amazing Appetizer, Chef Domenico Iavarone, Josè Restaurant, Torre Del Greco (Na)

 

What makes a dish memorable?  Well, one that you remember a long time after you have tasted it.  One that, just by looking at a photograph, brings back the aromas, the textures, and the flavors of a dish fantasticaaa.  

That is the case for this particular appetizer that I had nearly 1 month ago at Josè Restaurant in Torre del Greco.  It was not my first time at this Michelin starred restaurant, but it was the first time for my son, David.  In fact, I often watched his reaction too the whole 'Iavarone experience'.  Like when Chef Domenico Iavarone's codfish appetizer arrived.  

David and I paused a bit before digging in.

One...two...three bites of baccalà.  Three bites of cod, charred spring onion, candied lemon and olives.

Three bites of goodness...that maybe ended too soon.  But then, what is an appetizer?  An appetizer is a small serving of food — just a few bites — meant to be eaten before an entree, and often shared by several people. You can also call an appetizer an hors d'oeuvre. An appetizer is meant to stimulate your appetite, making you extra hungry for your meal. 

Mission accomplished...

Piccante yet Piacevole, Chef Domenico Iavarone, Jose Restaurant, Torre Del Greco (Na)

Quest'anno il primo piatto di zuppa forte e' tuo...appena la metto su ti scrivo

This year the first dish of zuppa forte is yours ... as soon as I prepare it, I'll write  you...

A message to me from Chef Domenico Iavarone of Jose Restaurant in Torre Del Greco.  A message to me with a promise.  A promise that this year I will be able to try his zuppa forte - his version of the classic humble Campania spicy soup.

To be honest, I had been waiting for this invitation for  2 years.  This particular specialty is not always on Iavarone's menu.  It's a seasonal dish with a history dating back to as far as the 1800s.  Prepared during the cold months of late fall and winter.  So it pops up from time to time - a fuori menu or special of the day. The dish is prepared with pork entrails, tomato concentrate, peppers, and lard.  It's a spicy thick soup, designed to keep one warm, full, and happy on a budget.  It's served between bread sandwich style, as a soup with thick crusts of pane, or with pasta - usually bucatini or spaghetti.  It has many names as well - zuppa forte, zupp’ ‘e suffritt, cioffritto, zuffritto, sfrionzola.

Then, one late October afternoon, Iavarone sent me another message -

 Domani e'  pronta... It will be ready tomorrow.

Twentyfour hours later, I sat down at a table for one in the packed dining room of Jose Restaurant.  The weather was unusually warm that Sunday afternoon, the 27th of October,  so after speaking with Maitre Sommelier Pasquale Marzano and Sommelier Salvatore Maresca, we decided to pair a Campania white wine that had depth and structure to pair with Iavarone's zuppa...

The wine arrived - a Falanghina Beneventano from I Pentri Winery.

and so did Iavarone's zuppa forte.

The chef's version is a little lighter than the original family recipe - his father is a butcher, by the way.  Instead of lard, the chef uses extra virgin olive oil to cut back on the calories.  He also added a light and creamy yogurt sauce...pasta of choice?  Spaghetti.

As I was finishing up the last mouthful, I felt my body temperature raising just a bit.Piccante ma piacevole - spicy yet pleasant...

Fantasticaaa!

Spaghetti Summer - Chef Domenico Iavarone, Jose Restaurant, Torre Del Greco (Na)

Well, it certainly is no secret.  I have a liking/obsession/borderline madeness for spaghetti.  And as my summer vacation draws to a close, I'd like to take a look back at some of my favorite spaghetti dishes that I enjoyed over the past couple of months.  

Like this dish by Chef Domenico Iavarone of Jose Restaurant in Torre del Greco (Na). 

I was in the kitchen, by chance, as Iavarone plated up the dish.  I've known the chef for several years and it has always been a pleasure to check out the final touches to a dish being prepared for me.  Take a look.

 His spaghetti with mussel, parmigiano reggiano cheese and basil.  A dish that not only celebrates summer, but the spectacular local seafood that surrounds the restaurant.

Fantasticaaa!

Fantastic First, Jose' Restaurant, Torre Del Greco(Na)

The last week or so hasn't felt much like summer.  Just about every afternoon about 3 pm or so, the sky has turned from a sunny bright blue to a menacing dark grey accompanied with a quick thunderstorm.  

A taste of autumn in the summer.  

Like this first course dish that I had for lunch on Jose' Restaurant's patio.  Looking over Chef Domenico Iavarone's summer menu I found a first course that grabbed my attention.  The chef's signature dish of pasta mista with flying squid, potatoes, and a green olive/parsley pesto sauce.

When I think of pasta and potatoes, my thoughts instantly go towards the cooler months.  For me it has become a comfort food that I usually prepare at home on the weekends for my son and I.  My version is no where near the gourmet version of Iavarone's so I decided to order it as part of the liberta' tasting menu.

The dish arrived to my table around 2:45 pm.  Just as the clouds in the distance were turning grey, just as a few rolls of thunder were picking up. 

The dish arrived - a simple plain white ceramic bowl to not distract from the fantastic colors on display.  Fork to the left, spoon to the right. That silver spoon was my utensil of choice.  A perfect choice to ensure that I could scoop up pasta along with soft warm cubes of white and purple potatoes and flavorful flying squid without leaving any of the super sauce behind. 

A few minutes later, I'd finished.  A few minutes after that, the clouds came closer and I decided to move inside before the afternoon shower - a quick light rain actually.  A touch of autumn...in the summer.

Fantastic.

Ischia Safari - My Three Day Ischiaddicted Diary, 17-19 September, 2017

The dates had been penciled in on my calendar since last spring - and finally...finally the big event arrived.  Ischia Safari - a fun filled gastronomic fest on the big green island.  I had the pleasure to attend, though it was definitely a challenge balancing the island nightlife and work the next morning on the mainland.

I thought it would be fun to put together an Ischia Safari diary jam packed with ischiaddicted moments.  Here's a look - Enjoy!

Sunday, 17 September 2017.

2:15 pm - Ristorante Pizzeria Da Ciccio ,Forio

Though the press dinner was scheduled for 8 pm, I decided to arrive around lunchtime for a pizza and beer at Ristorante Pizzeria Da Ciccio located in Forio.  There I tried Ivano Veccia's Da Ciccio - the house pizza.  The pizza is topped with creamy Ischia white onions (that had been cooked under ashes) along with  rosemary, basil, and oregano, fior di latte and mozarella cheese and then baked in the oven. After it comes out, Veccia adds his tuna capaccio - prepared by Veccia by placing the tuna fillets in salt, sugar, and spices for five days. 

Ivano Veccia's Da Ciccio 

2:51 pm - Ristorante Pizzeria Da Ciccio ,Forio

A quick caffe' before tackling the rest of the day.

3:37 pm - Negombo, Lacco Ameno

Veccia offered to give me a ride to my hotel in Ischia Porto, but first he hand an errand to run.  Veccia - pizzaiolo in charge for Ischia Safari - needed to light the ovens so that they'd be the right temperature for the following evening.

Ivano Veccia

3:51 pm - Negombo, Lacco Ameno

Michelin starred chef, fresh from a packed lunch service at nearby Ristorante Indaco, arrived to check thins out.  Palamaro, alongside Chef Nino Di Costanzo is one of the organizers of this event, now in its third year.

Chef Palamaro (right) and sous chef Tommaso Luongo

9:12 pm, Casa Colonica 1930, Negombo, Lacco Ameno

Press dinner featuring some amazing local dishes, sparkling wine, music, friends and fun!

Buffalo mil mozzarella cheese

Fried 'montanara' pizza

Fresh tomato salad

Friarielli greens and black olives

Bruschetta, butter, anchovies, and lemon/orange zest

Pane/Pomodoro - Bread and tomatoes

9:35 pm, Casa Colonica 1930, Negombo, Lacco Ameno
 During the meal, we sang along to Neapolitan classic hits courtesy of Girolamo Mattera.

Marinated sardines, mint, and fresh oregano

Fried cod and sweet onions

10:25 pm, Casa Colonica 1930, Negombo, Lacco Ameno
In the kitchen as pasta maker Giovanni Assante of Gerardo di Nola prepares his pasta and beans. Yum!

Jack Monti and Giovanni Assante

Pasta and beans/ pasta e fagioli

Spaghetti, pine nuts, raisins and very very hot chili peppers

Dessert! Sfogliatelle and donuts

September 18, 2017

00:15 am  Ischia Porto

Lights out for me! I have a ferry to catch at 0620 am!Yikes!

8:02 pm Negombo, Lacco Ameno

A full day of school, a rush to the ferry, and a quick taxi ride - my 2nd night at the Safari!

Around 2,500 people attended this fundraising event.  For forty five euro, guests had the chance to try five dishes choosing from over 100 chefs, pizzamakers, and pastry chefs. 

First stop: Chef Zone

Chef Crescenzo Scotti's stuffed pepper

Chef Lino Scarallo

Scarallo's beef and marinated eggplant sandwich and horseradish sauce

Chef Domenico Iavarone

Golden fried calf's head, white beans, and marinated onions

8:22 pm Negombo, Lacco Ameno
Pizza and Panini Zone

Gianfranco Iervolino's pizza with anchovies, garlic and black olives.

Gianfranco Iervolino

Ivano Veccia

Giuseppe Pignalosa's rucola, yellow tomatoes and tuna

Giuseppe Pignalosa

Bifulco's tuna and yellow tomato sandwich

8:57 pm Negombo, Lacco Ameno

Back to the Chef Zone

Chef Palamaro's dish starring pecorino cheese, pepper, sea snails, mantis shrimp, and frairielli greens

9:05 pm Negombo, Lacco Ameno
A little rock music with guitarist Matteo Di Meglio and company.

 9:09 pm Negombo, Lacco Ameno
Chef Zone
A quick conversation with Chef Crescenzo Scotti - (who later served as my uber driver!)

Chef Scotti and Emanuela Mazzella

Chef Umberto De Martino

Chef Giorgio Bartolucci's bastoa', foie gras, and apricot chutney

Chef Giulio Coppola's mussel soup

Chef Ciro Mattera's tanuta fish with burrata cheese,lettuce and red saurkraut

 9:56 pm Negombo, Lacco Ameno

Pastry Zone:

Here I found a couple of familiar faces and tried some tasty pastries.

Pastry chef Nello Iervolino's dish reminds one of candy often given to kids by their 'nonna'/grandma

Pastry Chef Angelo Tramontano's fried San Giuseppe zeppole

Random pics from social media...

September 19, 2017

05:25 am Ischia Porto
My taxi picks me up at my hotel.  Another ferry to catch! Grooooaaaan!

8:20 pm Ristorante Indaco, Lacco Ameno

Perfect location for aperitifs prepared by Michelin starred chefs for the last evening of Ischia Safari.  About a hundred or so guests.  I even wore a dress.

Chef Andrea Migliaccio

Migliaccio's pasta al genovese, beans, and friarelli greens

Migliaccio's marinated amberjack in tomato water with avocado, annurca apple, and sea asparagus

Butcher Mario Carrabs bbq platter

Chef Francesco Sposito's soft taco with celery, turnip, tuna, and a pistachio vinagrette

Sposito's crunchy part of fried macaroni

Chef Vittorio Fusari's perch fish cerviche and amberjack spritz

Chef Giuseppe Ianotti's 'tonnato sbagliato'

Franco Pepe's fried Ciro pizza

9:56 pm Ristorante Indaco Lacco Ameno
After aperitifs poolside, I'm led to my seat inside Indaco for the start of the main portion of our meal.  Each dish served with a glass of champagne.

Chef GaetanoTrovato's oyster and burrata cheese appetier

Chef Bobo Cerea's risotto with tarragon cream, pumpkin bisque, and sea scallops

Chef Gaetano Trovato's agnolotti pasta with red shrimp, zucchini, mint and caviar

10:57 pm Ristorante Indaco
A quick peek in the kitchen!

11:05 pm Ristorante Indaco Lacco Ameno
Back at the table...

Chef Pino Cuttaia's beef fillet, artichoke oil, and potato

11:22 pm. Ristorante Indaco Lacco Ameno
Pic with the brigade of the night.

Time to head outside behind the restaurant, on practically hugging the sea for dessert! I tried 2 dishes- that's all I had space for!

Pastry Chef Carmine Di Donna's passion fruit

Pastry Chef Antonino Maresca's 'Mexico and Clouds'

 20 September, 2017
02:00 am Ischia Porto
A last get together with friends while waiting for the ferry - at 2:30 in the morning!

So, that's my diary!
A grande grazie to Chef Nino Di Costanzo, Chef Pasquale Palamaro and my partner in crime, Ivano Veccia.

Ciao Ischia
Ciao Ischia Safari-

A presto