A Taste of Home, Chef Eduardo Estatico, J Kitchen, Capri (Na)

La mia cucina e' di concetto italiano, sa di storia e di tradizione, nello stesso tempo semplice e creativa.

Chef Eduardo Estatico

La memoria del gusto e dei profumi della mia infanzia, la verace cultura napoletana, la passione per il teatro di Eduardo De Filippo e le mie esperienze professionali ispirano i miei piatti.
La mia idea di cucina e' di stile neoclassico che va sempre alla ricerca del contemporaneo: rigorosamente di stagione, senza pregiudizi, di orto, di mare e di terra insieme.
Il viaggio del gusto parte dalla Napoli di un tempo, mia citta' natale, si nutre di Campania, fa il giro d'iltalia e infine approda a Capri, l'isola azzura.

Chef Eduardo Estatico
J Kitchen Capri

My cuisine is based on Italian concepts, its history and tradition, and at the same time, simple and creative.
Memories of taste and fragrances of my childhood, true Neapolitan culture,  passion for  Eduardo De Filippo's plays and my professional experiences inspire my dishes.
My idea of cooking is a neoclassical style that always searches for the contemporary: strictly seasonal, without prejudice, with products from the vegetable garden, the sea and land altogether.
This journey begins in historical Naples, my hometown, 'feeds' on Campania, travels around Italy and finally arrives in Capri, the blue island.

I thought deeply about those words written from the heart of Estatico on the inside of J Kitchen's menu.  Estatico is one of my go to chefs when I have a question or curiosity about Neapolitan cuisine.  And why not?  Estatico, 33 years young, even wrote a book of classic Neapolitan recipes, proverbs and anecdotes.
I wish you could have seen the excitement on my face when this dish of eggplant parmesan/parmigiana di melanzane arrived.  Two versions!




His inspiration for this taste of home is from his grandmothers.
 The first version - from his Nonna Giuseppina -  his maternal grandmother.  Estatico shared with me that his nonna would prepare for him this parmigiana bianca without tomato sauce, with buffalo milk provola cheese, and chocolate shavings. Chocolate! His grandmother had memories of this dish during the II World War, when American soldiers would give chocolates to Neapolitan children.  The original  recipe, however, probably dates back to the Bourbon period.

Estatico has Nonna Rita - his paternal grandmother - to thank for inspiring him for this version.   Recently Estatico wrote this on his Facebook page:

She's the light, the blunder, my home, my roots, my extended family.  I  a child, who depended on her for 'zuppa di latte' before going to school, creamy pasta and beans, and tomato preserves. I who ran barefoot defying  numerous dangers, while she chased me and made me do what was right.  She prepared bread with tomato and love for me. On Sundays (actually beginning Saturday evening)  during the cooler seasons , she meticulously prepared a mythical sauce of ragù , red flavor full of perfumes-as good as the sea is deep.  I feel so much love for Nonna Rita. Nonna Rita was indirectly  my first cooking instructor even if  she is not mentioned in my resume.

So it was Nonna Rita who inspired this gourmet classic version of parmigiana di melanzane with a rich flavorful tomato sauce.

That afternoon in August, even if it was just for a brief period, I felt part of Estatico's family.  I could sens in these dishes the love and admiration he has for his grandmothers.  His respect for tradition.  His taste of home.

Thanks, Eddy.

Fantastic Firsts, Chef Eduardo Estatico, J Kitchen, Capri (Na)

A few weeks ago I headed to Capri to visit Chef Eduardo Estatico.  Estatico is the executive chef of J K Place, and more specifically the head chef of J Kitchen, the hotel's gourmet restaurant. 

It's been four years since your last visit, Estatico jokingly reminded me.  We've got a lot to catching up to do.

.

So, after a series of amazing appetizers, coming soon, the chef invited me into the kitchen for a chat as he prepared the first course.  One that the chef had picked personally for me from his rich selection of primi piatti.  His Riso Carnaroli Riserva San Massimo al peperone ripieno scoppiato. A risotto dish with all the flavorful goodness of the classic ingredients of  Neapolitan stuffed peppers bursting on the plate. 

Take a look as Estatico and Francesco Cappelli explain how the dish is prepared...

Steps include adding creamy roasted peppers to the rice and stirring stirring stirring, along with white butter and caramelized spring onions.   Why white butter?  To give the risotto that perfect touch of acidity.

Part 2 Estatico explains in more detail - the three important stages - tostatura, brillatura,mantecatura, toasting the rice, glazing, and stirring...

Taking a look at the classic recipe, Estatico explains, during the important toasting stage, where one had to be careful not to crack or break the rice, the onions would often burn. So it really didn't make sense to add onions during the toasting stage and risk burning them when they could be adding towards the end. That way you'd still get the onion flavors - if desired. 

This was an important lesson that Estatico learned while working alongside Chef Gualtiero Marchesi.  Another important lesson that Estatico learned from Marchesi is adding white butter towards the of the cooking process.  This gives a really nice hint of acidity, and can even eliminate the glazing stage when white wine and or vegetable broth is added.  Adding wine for acidity so early in the cooking process the acidity is often lost during the long cooking time.




This recipe, like many of Estatico's goes calls on fond memories of his time spent in the kitchen with his grandmothers.  When my grandmother prepared stuffed peppers, she would put the whole world inside -- Estatico shared.  Capers, olive, day old bread, parmigiana reggiano cheese...sometimes toasted pine nuts, raisins, and ground beef. Estatico took these ingredients that are placed insde the peppers, and has them bursting throughout the dish.  He enjoys cooking with rice - to him it is a blank canvas where he can use his creativity.

Cooking time for a dish like this?  Including about two minutes of toasting, about 14- 16 minutes. In the video we see Estatico adding whit butter extra virgin olive oil, vegetable broth, Parmigiano Reggiano cheesed (aged 36 months) and pepper.  Risotto needs to be creamy he tells me, as he performs the final stage of risotto preparation. Mantecatura - or tossing the rice in the pan so that all the flavors can meld and fuse together.




Part 3 - at the pass with Chef Estatico.  Right before he plates up, he adds a drizzle of vinegar for acidity...then ingredients mentioned earlier gourmet style.

Fantastic!

Gin O'Clock, Monzu Gin Club and American Bar, Capri (Na)

That Saturday hundreds of tourists arrived at Marina Piccola on the beautiful island of Capri around 11 a.m. I was one of them. And though many were headed to the beach, to take a tour, sight see or a go on a boat ride to the Blue Grotto I decided to head towards Punta Tragara Hotel. Punta Tragara is one of the top hotels on the island. It boast a 5 star Luxury hotel rating, a fantasticaaa view of the Faraglioni rocks, Monzu Restaurant, and Monzu Gin Club and American Bar.

Chef Luigi Lionetti met me on my arrival and showed me around .....


with one of the first stops being the bar and Daniela Chirico.

Chirico is one of the most talented bartenders on the island with a passion for gin and tonic. Monzu, then, was the perfect playground for my increasing curiosity about this historic cocktail dating back to the 19th century - aka a G and T. His cocktail menu has 150 types of gin and 21 different tonic water.

After studying the menu I asked Chirico for a little help.

He went into action. It was gin o'clock...

Fantasticaaa!!!!

Amazing Appetizers, Chef Salvatore La Ragione, Ristorante Mamma', Capri (Na)

On that particular sunny Saturday afternoon, hordes of tourists headed for the beach, their boats, and the beautiful grottoes of that magnificent vacation island - Capri. I, instead, headed for the cable car to take me to the piazzetta, up the stairs to the right, and down a cool little alley to the Michelin starred Ristorante Mamma'.

There Chef Salvatore La Ragione prepared these three appetizers paired with a glass of white wine and a spectacular view.

First:

Red mullet...

a green pepper pesto...

and marinated sliced onions.

Next:

Cuttlefish tagliatelle...

fresh cool garden greens...

and a beet and sesame seed oil mayonnaise.

Then:

Roasted octopus...

broccoli, zucchini...

and Jerusalem artichokes.

Amazing!

Fantastic Firsts, Chef Salvatore La Ragione, Ristorante Mamma' Capri (Na)

Chef Salvatore La Ragione

Finally!  An exclamation made by Chef Salvatore La Ragione and myself.
Finally, we both expressed since the chef and I have known each other for a few years, but I have never ever visited him here, at the Michelin starred Ristorante Mamma' tucked away in a tiny little alley near Capri's most busiest piazza.
Here, at a table with an amazing view and a light gentle breeze.
It was a perfect opportunity, then, for the chef and I to make up for lost time.  La Ragione sent out four primi piatti, pasta dishes,  for me to try.
Take a look!

Gnochetti al profumo di limone con vongole e broccoli..

Potato dumplings, lemon, clams and broccoli greens....

Delicate and profumatissimo!!!

Then, the chef's vermicilli ai ricci del mare...

Vermicelli pasta and sea urchins.

And then, a dish that I tried for the first time  a year ago during Festa a Vico- Risotto matecato aglio e olio...

Mussel scented rice, extra virgin olive oil and garlic.  I notice this time that the chef added a couple of almonds for a crunchy touch.

Have room for one more?  The chef asked.


He was really surprised that I hadn't tried this Chef Gennaro Esposito classic -minestra di pasta mista con crostacei e pesci di scoglio.

Mixed pasta and seafood...

Fantastic!