Back to Abraxas - Abraxas Osteria, Pozzuoli (Na)

 

When you open Abraxas Osteria’s home page, you’ll find these words---

We are in the Phlegrean fields, here where throughout the centuries the fire meets the sea, the seductive and wild nature offers unique scenarios and unmatched products.

Here the ancient embraces the modern with warm and lively colors: smoothed tufo stone, the brick arches, the wood, colors and shapes of objects that tell our story.

Every detail has something to tell, each detail is part of Abraxas.

Abraxas is a place where the hosts welcome friends who come back with pleasure to learn about their tales and their passion for these lands, made of laborers, breeders, fishermen and producers

who live to carry on in their companies the ancient traditions that allow each of our plates to

to be lived through warm feelings.

I read those words with a smile as I scrolled through the website with curiosity, enthusiasm, and excitement.  It had been two (omg- maybe three) years since I had visited Nando Salemme -owner, traveller, dreamer, enthusiast- and I eager to see what I Nando had done with the place.

Check it out -

Visualizza questo post su Instagram

Un post condiviso da karenp (@andiamotrips)

Lively colors is right!  And what attention to detail.  I fell in love with my water glass-complete with a yellow and blue fish!

 

Nando's menu features not only the traditions of Campi Flegrei/Campania- but has a long list of quality Slow Food Presidio products - many chosen personally during his travels.

Visualizza questo post su Instagram

Un post condiviso da karenp (@andiamotrips)

Toasted seaweed bread with Cantabrian anchovies and Normandy butter.  Caciobarile with giant lupins from Variano.  Plegrean fiocco.  Foccaccia with sautéed escarole, olives, walnuts and anchovies. Zucchini crochette and mint mayonnaise.  Casatiello. Stracciata with Neapolitan eggplant.

Murzill 'sapurit ...

Fresella from San Marcellino with tomato salad  and mussels from Campi Flegrei.

Next, I wanted to focus on first courses- and I was served two...

Linguine with a creamy cicerchia sauce, tomatoes, and mussels from Capo Miseno.

Potato gnocchi with leeks, shrimp, squid, and frutti di mare with lemon.

I decided to pass on second courses-that honestly wasn't easy to do, considering the top selection of quality grilled meats.  Next time!

So  I checked out the dessert menu with a deconstructed tiramisu as well as an espresso martini...

So, my impressions about my Saturday lunch at Abraxas?  Let's just say that I gave Salemme a hug when I arrived and an even bigger one when I left...

Host Nando Salemme and myself

A presto!

Spaghetti Madness

Spring weather in Campania has finally caught up with the calendar.  And that means sunshine, short sleeved shirts...and spaghetti.  Yes, spaghetti.  I must admit with all the different pasta varieties to choose from, spaghetti has been, is, and probably always will be one of my favorites.  No, not the Americanized versions with heavy meat sauces or even- shudder-meatballs. I'm talking about lighter sauces that work with the pasta.  Complement it and  not cover it.  In the past couple of years, I've had a chance to taste some super spaghettis created by some of the top chefs in Campania.  Here are some of my unforgettable assaggis ...

Spaghetti di Gragnano, codfish, broccolli, Paestum buffalo carpaccio with a white turnip and bluefish sauce.
Chef Ernesto Iaccarino, Don Alfonso 1890 (Na)

I tasted this dish on my first visit to Don Alfonso 1890 two years ago.  After a couple of bites, and endless smiles from the staff and entire Iaccarino family, this restaurant became one of my favorite places on earth.

 garlic, olive oil, and hot peppers with Cetara anchovy sauce,Cetara anchovies
Chef Francesco Russo, Hotel Raito (Sa)

Ok.  The view from the balcony didn't hurt.  It actually served as an amazing backdrop to this unforgettable plate of pasta prepared by Chef Russo.  Besides the mix of flavors I loved the presentation.

Spaghetti with Cetara anchovy sauce
Chef Pasquale Torrente, Il Convento (Sa)

Ah, Cetara.  A fisherman's village on the Amalfi Coast.  Home to Chef Pasquale Torrente and his famous anchovies.  I tasted this dish with the chef on the terrace of his restaurant just as the sun was going down.

Spaghetti with a walnut cream sauce, anchovies and  bottarga with citrus fruits and ricotta
Chef Francesco Spagnuolo, Morabianca Ristorante (Av)

Not all of my awesome assaggis were on the seaside.  This dish was prepared by Chef Spagnoulo in Mirabella Eclano surrounded by Mastroberardino Winery's aglianico grapevines.

Spaghetti with tomato sauce and basil
Chef Giuseppe Daddio, Scuola di Cucina Dolce & Salato (Ce)

This simple dish prepared by Chef Daddio was one in a series of 12 pasta dishes I tasted one afternoon at his cooking school in Caserta.  Many say that one of the toughest dishes to prepare is this one.

Spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, chili peppers, pine nuts, and collard greens
Chef Tommaso Di Meo,  Osteria Abraxas (Na)

Rounding out the list, a dish prepared right in front of my eyes by Chef Di Meo.  One that I enjoyed eating in the kitchen while wrapping up our conversation in the kitchen...

Spaghetti season 2013 is officially open.

Serendipity - Venticinque 2007, Az. Vitivinicola I Favati

Wikipedia: Serendipity means  a "happy accident" or "pleasant surprise"; specifically, the accident of finding something good or useful without looking for it.

I must admit that I was pleasantly surprised when I received a message from Angelo Di Costanzo.  Short, simple, to the point.  An invite to hang out at Abraxas to taste and talk about wine.   How could I turn that down?  It would be totally casual, there would be other sommeliers, restauranteers, wine writers and friends.  And  wine maker Vincenzo Mercurio and some of the wines from wineries that he works with.

No, no wasn't an option.  

Twenty or so wines; 10 whites, 10 reds, divided casually, cozily into 4 rounds.  The second glass of round three caught my attention.  An aglianico from I Favati.  The white label was familiar, similar to their Pietramara Fiano Di Avellino DOCG.  But this was an aglianico...vintage 2007, and as Angelo poured it into my glass, I sat up and took notice.  Color- a passionate ruby red.  I gazed at it for awhile before tasting.  2007.  It would need awhile to open up in my glass.  I would have to be patient.  I Favati and Mercurio were for their first harvest season.  They patiently allowed  the grapes to macerate for three weeks. They  patiently aged the wines for twenty-five months in a combination of large barrels, tonneaux, and barriques.    A longer period than that required for a Taurasi Reserve.

So I waited a little while longer.  Nose- deep and continually evolving as time passed...as  it had time to breathe and warm up in the glass.   Those familiar fruit aromas,  spices that complemented and not overpowered.  Mouth- smooth, morbido, comfortable.  A wine that was  warm and lingering with a nice persistent, patient  finish.    

The tasting continued...time to move on.  Time to add a little footnote to my tasting notes.  Note to self- vineyard visit with I Favati…la primavera/spring.   Patience…

Kitchen Closeup - Abraxas Osteria, Pozzuoli (Na)

Saturday - late afternoon.  After enjoying a spectacular sunset from the parking lot of Abraxas Osteria, I opened kitchen door.  And there he was, in the back corner, quietly slicing broccoli for the evening dinner service.  Chef Tommaso Di Meo calmly preparing for another Saturday night at one of  Napoli's hottest dinner spots.  Like he has been doing for the past 8 years or so.

Chef Tommaso Di Meo

Di Meo,   the eye of the hurricane, while around him his staff prepared appetizers, side dishes, desserts...slicing, dicing...a comfortable chaos.

I wanted to talk with Di Meo's about some of his dishes on the menu, maybe get a recipe or two.  But Tommaso had another idea...

Karen, grab the menu, pick something out, and I'll show you how it's done...

Sounded easy enough, but there were so many dishes that I wanted to try.
Decided.
Spaghetti.
A twist on Napoli's classic spaghetti, aglio, olio, and peperoncino (garlic, evo, and chili peppers).  Something quick that I could try at home if I wanted...

A few ingredients...

italian bread crumbs

toasted pine nuts and walnuts

collard greens

black olives

garlic and evo

and spaghetti...of course

.Then step by step, Di Meo showed me how he added each ingredient to the pan...

 along with a ladle or two of l'acqua di cottura, water used to prepare the spaghetti...

When the spaghetti was al dente, he added it to the pan, tossed it several times as it finished cooking along with the sauce.

Then plated it up...

The best seat in the house is in the kitchen.  Where I grabbed my dish of spaghetti and a fork and stood over in the corner to watch Abraxas Saturday Night in action...Where owner Nando Salemme joined us for a quick chat, a smile, and then it was back to work.   Di Meo back in his corner continuing with preparations. His team continuing their business as usual.   The aromas in the kitchen intensified as the clock approached the dinner hour. 

Grazie, Abraxas...

Grazie, Chef...

Buon lavoro...

The Wine List, Please-Abraxas Osteria & Wine Bar, Pozzuoli (Na)

I remember the first time I went to Abraxas. I brought a few friends for a real girls' night out…away from the husbands, kids, and boyfriends. It was my choice, I felt a little responsible, but I had only heard positive things about this osteria located in the outskirts of Campi Flegrei. A place that had a great menu…and an amazing and diverse wine list. I remember being handed that list by Nando Salemme, owner of Abraxas. I can still feel the eyes of my girlfriends on me as they expected me to choose a wine from this large carta dei vini. I chose…we wined and dined…it was a great night.

Since then, I have bumped into Nando on numerous occasions outside of Abraxas. On the streets of Taurasi’s centro storico on a hot summer evening. At various wine fairs, lunches, dinners and Slow Food events. And each time we bumped into each other, I was always fascinated at his passion for tasting and trying new things; from wines, to cheeses, to salamis and jams. Nando Salemme-always on the look out for something new, something different to bring back to his osteria in Campi Flegrei.

Fast forward: April 2011. I pull into the parking lot of Via Scalandrone # 15, in Pozzuoli at about 1615-but this time without my girlfriends. This time I brought my Nikon, a notepad and a pen. I wanted to have a chat with Nando about his carta dei vini. Un caffè, a glass of Ferrarele and Nando began his story.

A story that began about 9 years ago when Abraxas was just a small wine bar, with a small menu. Over time, by popular demand, the menu expanded and Abraxas became an osteria serving pasta, cheeses, salamis based around the Campi Flegrei territory that he calls home. Slowly..steadily his wine list of a modest 80 wines developed into 800. 800 wines…800 friends. Nando, sommelier and enthusiast for anything and everything under the sun has a passion for exploring. He travels often in his camper with his wife and daughter and with his friends. He travels throughout Campania, Abruzzo, Basilicata, and Tuscany to name a few adventures. He walks the vineyards, gets to know the producers, the wine makers, the wine. All out of an enthusiasm and desire to bring back a product that he feels that his customers, his friends, would like.

Skimming through his wine list is like opening up his travel diary, Wineries throughout Italy. Wineries who are internationally known as well as those who are unknown…all wineries that meet the Abraxas test. The list is divided by region beginning with the vini al bicchierri. A selection of 7 to 8 wines that you may order by the glass. A great way to try a new wine that is unfamiliar to you or an option for those who may not want a full bottle. Then the ultimi arrivi. Abraxas’s latest wines choices. A quick way to see what’s new to the mix. Skimming through the pages, I saw a large selection of Campania wines, particularly those from Campi Flegrei. Nando feels that it is important to support the territory, his territory. A territory proudly displayed from Abraxas’s garden which overlooks Lake D’Averno. Nando feels a strong tie to Campi Flegrei, to its wines and other products. Making people aware of the culture and traditions can help to preserve a region.

There is a section for Abraxas’s recommended wines. These are for those who are unsure of what to order and usually include Italy’s smaller wineries with an interesting quality/price ratio. About 70 international wines have found their way on the list with France being up front and center. I continued to browse the light brown album which held his wine list. But my Nikon was getting restless. I wanted to walk around.

Nando at this point pulled out a set of keys and opened his cantina. An area to the left side of the bar, hidden in the corner. A small area behind iron bars with two tables set up for dining. Modest, dimly lit. I was immediately interested in what each shelf had to offer. So a took a few minutes, okay, about a half an hour, roaming the shelves. Wines from all over. Wines that had their own story. Wines that Nando chose himself and brought home to Abraxas. Grappas, whiskeys, dessert wines, and all sorts of after dinner drinks. All resting in the comfort of Abraxas’s cantina. Aging in the bottle, relaxing on the shelves.

Relaxing as I did a while back with my girlfriends. On a girls' night out…without husbands, kids, or boyfriends. I even remember the wine that I chose that evening. And I saw it there..
.
A Piedirosso Riserva from Campi Flegrei…I think I chose well.  I mean, it was hard not to...

Abraxas Osteria & Wine Bar
Via Scalandrone # 15
Pozzuoli-Lucrino (Na)
081 854 9347

Italian Version

Campernauti Flegrei on Tour …la Basilicata...Abraxas Osteria, December 2

The Camper is back on the road...this time the Basilicata region is Nando and Co.’s destination. This region is rich in interesting but not so well known products. On this shopping trip, they’ll be in search of products such as caciocavallo podolico, salsiccia pezzente, melanzane rosse, as well as visit some interesting local wineries. All to prepare a special menu for Thursday December 2nd at Abraxas Osteria. The menu, to be announced later, will consist of appetizers, 2 first courses, a second course, side dish and dessert. Wine will be provided by Cantine del Notaio- Il Rogito 2006,il Repertorio 2007,l’Atto 2008,la Firma 2007.



The cost of the evening is 35 Euro and will start around 2030 ish

To reserve a spot call 0818549347-3392236700

Abraxas Osteria

scalandrone 15

Pozzuoli, Italy

Malazè and...Wineries and Restaurants

(La Bifora-Bacoli)

 

Malazè has paired up several of Campi Flegrei’s restaurants with some of the areas wineries to give you two evenings to see how well they blend together.

September 8, 1900 hrs
Cena in Vigna con…il ristorante/Dinner in the vineyards with…the restaurant.
You can visit the winery and vineyards, then sit down to a dinner prepared by some of the top chefs around. The cost is 30 Euro, and reservations can be made by calling the restaurants directly. Phone numbers and addresses can be found on the web site link here.

Cantina Piscina Mirabile (Bacoli) and Ristorante Il Paolanto (Bacoli)

Cantina La Sibilla (Bacoli) and Ristorante La Bifora (Bacoli)

Cantine Astroni (Napoli) and Ristorante La Campagnia del Ragù (Giugliano in Campania)

Cantina Grotte del Sole (Quarto) and Ristorante Sud (Quarto)

September 9 2100
La Cantina Amica
This time we will meet the winery in the comfort of the host restaurant. Ais Napoli sommeliers will also be on hand to guide you through wine tastings along with your meal. For info, prices and reservations, please contact the restaurant directly. Phone numbers and addresses can be found on the web site link here.

La Cucina di Ruggierier (Lucrino) and Cantina il IV Miglio

Lo Scoglio (Pozzuoli) and Cantina Contrada Salandra

Il Brontolone (Pozzouli) and Cantine Carputo

La Cantina dell’Abbazia (Pozzuoli) and Cantina Agnanum

Abraxas (Pozzuoli) and Cantina Astroni

Il Limoneto (Pozzuoli) and Tenuta Matilde Zasso

Trattoria Il Rudere (Pozzuoli) and Cantina Quartum

La Bifora (Bacoli) and Cantina La Sibilla

Batis (Bacoli) and Cantina Piscina Mirabile

SUD (Quarto) and Cantine Grotte del Sole

For information on all of the events for Malazè go to http://www.malaze.org/

Il Bianco, il Rosso, il Nero e...Dinner and Wine Tasting at Abraxas on Thursday, February 25

Yet another evening of small wine producers brought to you by Osteria Abraxas. Nando Salemme and Vanna, will present Greco di Tufo di Cantina dell’Angelo, Gaglioppo from Cirò A’ Vita, and Aglianico and Taurasi from Cancelliere.

The menu will prepared by chef Thomas Meo
In short,it will be a a gourmet evening intertwined with deep discussions of food and wine.
Don’t miss it!!

Menu:
Crispy cod with potatoes and pistachio pesto

Beans, ricotta and "stomach"

Polenta with ragu

Pastry with pumpkin

Artichoke pie
***
Risotto with bacon, leeks, cheese and pepper
Neapolitan lasagna
***
Beef with balsamic vinegar reduction in a crust of broccoli
***
‘Bocconcino’ with a dark chocolate surprise

Wine:
Greco di Tufo 2008 Cantina dell'angelo
Cirò 2008 Azienda agricola A' Vita
Aglianico Gioviano 2007 Il Cancelliere
Taurasi Nero Nè 2005 Il Cancelliere
Dinner price: 35,00 €

To reserve your spot call 081-8549347 or 339-2236700

Abraxas Osteria
Via Scalandrone, 15

80070 Bacoli

An Evening Out at Abraxas

The first time I saw Nando Salemme (owner of Abraxas) was at Terre Madre Day at Cantina Astroni last December.(here). I was quite impressed about what he had to say about Slow Food, the importance of local products, and how important it is to teach the younger generation healthy cooking and eating habits. Since then, I said to myself, “If I ever get the chance to get out to Abraxas….” That opportunity came last weekend.

Saturday night, the place was packed with a mixture of American and Italian clientele. Two levels and a terrace, we found our table next to a comfortable woodburning stove. Their menu is seasonal, representing the best that Campania, particularly Campi Flegrei has to offer. Nando suggested we try the appetizers. We agreed and were treated to a parade of specialties proudly brought to our table by a simpatico staff.

· Bruschetta with lardo nostrano

· Tagliere con cacio ricotta e salami dei Campi Flegrei

· Zuppa di fagioli (!!!!!)

· Panpata con salsiccia e friarielli (a pastry with cheese, sausauge and the famous friarielli greens baked together!!!!)

· Crepes di ricotta con fonduta di noce di Sorrento(!!!!ricotta cheese crepes with cheese and nuts from Sorrento!!!!)

· Zucca e salsiccia ( creamy pumpkin cooked to perfection with hints of sausage, garlic, and olive oil!!!)

· Pancotto di broccoli con crema di patate (!!!!)

Then it was time to move on to something else. I chose to skip the first course and go for beef braised in (what else?) aglianico with mashed potatoes. Very tender…..

Wine list? Basically a book featuring almost every wine imaginable. Our choice….Montegauro –Piedirosso Riserva 2007 DOC from Grotte del Sole.

Excellent choice of desserts, I chose the chocolate flan. This is basically a chocolate brownie covered with powdered sugar oozing with melted chocolate. A warm, toasty way to end an amazing meal before we stepped out into the cold night air.

Abraxas is located on Via Scaldrone, 15 in Lucrino. Closed on Tuesdays, open for lunch on Sundays. Call 081-8549347for a reservation or to find out about upcoming events.

Abraxas and Casebianche-January 28, 8:30 pm

Thursday night, January 28, Abraxas Osteria ,Scalandrone 15, pozzuoli, will host a guided wine tasting featuring the winery Casebianche from Cilento. The winery's owner Pasquale Miltrano and enologist Fortunato Sebastiano will lead the evening. The wines up for tasting are:

- Cumalè Fiano 2008
- Iscadoro 2008
- Delle More 2008
- Coupersito 2008

These wines will be paired with Abraxas’s Campanian menu presented below:

bruschetta con ricotta di bufala e pesto di acciughe
polpettine di panbroccolo
polenta con salsiccia e friarielli
crocchette di baccalà su crema di patata aromatizzata al limone e olive nere del vesuvio
tagliere cacioricotta e pancetta stagionata

***

fusilloni di Gragnano con broccoli e alici di Cetara su letto di patate
spagnetti con noci di Sorrento, pinoli, olive e broccoli neri

***
cuore di scamone di marchigiana con riduzione di pomodoro del piennolo al profumo di olive e cavolfiore gratinato

***
crostatina con confettura di mandarini del nostro giardino

The cost of the evening is 35 euro.

For more info or to reserve your spot, call 081-8549347