From an Historical Aglianico Vineyard to a Glass of Wine, Vineyard Hopping with the Mastroberardino Winery, Luogosano (Av)

During the drive from Apice in the province of Benevento  to Luogosano in Avellino, the conversation went from lively  to nearly silent.  It was a late morning towards the end of July, and I was sitting shotgun next to agronomist Antonio Dente of Mastroberardino Winery  for another vineyard hopping adventure.

At first I wasn't sure what we were doing on this side of Irpinia's Aglianico country- mentally performing a quick inventory of  where the winery has their Aglianico vineyards...Montemarano, Pietrdefusi, Mirabella, Pompeii...
But Luogosano?

La vigna storica, Dente said as he turned down a narrow road.  We've spoken about it before.

The historical Aglianico vineyards that have been the roots, so to speak, of an exciting experiment that Mastroberardino Winery has been working on since 2000. Yes - spoken about it, but I had never been. Until today.

Instantly I straightened up in my seat and looked intently out the window as that narrow road became an even narrower path with vegetation closing in around us. Dente continued driving, however, and we eventually came to a small clearing where he stopped the car and parked.

After a moment or two, I exited the vehicle. I was silent as I slowly walked towards a small shed at one side of the vineyard.  A tiny vineyard, with only 30 vines towering overhead.

A vineyard immersed in in a small oak and walnut tree forest - unseen from the main road.  The vines here were around 100 years old.  Ungrafted vines that had lived through and survived phlloxera and an earthquake.

I walked around in that loose sandy soil  and my silent thoughts and emotions nearly drowned out Dente as he reviewed with me what he has told me before on previous occasions.  He reviewed with me that the cuttings from these vines were the ones used in research which resulted in the classification of two Aglianico clones named after the late Dr Antonio Mastroberardino; Antonio Mastroberardino VCR 418 and  Antonio Mastroberardino VCR 421.  

He reviewed with me that cuttings from the 30 vines here were planted in nearby Mirabella Eclano at the winery's Radici Resort, back behind the clubhouse back in 2004.  

Each vine with numbers that matched up with labels in the Mirabella Eclano vineyard in order to track the progress and quality of the vines as well as keep track of their origin.  

Vineyard visit in Mirabella Eclano back in 2011.

He reviewed with me that after a few years of numerous tests and controls, only two vines passed the tests required and were chosen to be grafted onto existing piedirosso vines in Mirabella Eclano.
And in 2008, the grapes from these vines produced the first bottles of RediMore Irpinia Aglianico Doc.

Vineyard visit in Mirabella Eclano back in 2011.

Vineyard visit in Mirabella Eclano back in 2011.

Vineyard visit in Mirabella Eclano back in 2011.

 I looked up towards the vines,  bursting with vegetation, still producing bunches of grapes high high above the ground.  Bellow, willow branches tightly embracing the vines to thick wooden poles. 

 A cool breeze that disguised the fact that just 50 meters or so away, down that narrow path we'd be back on one the town's main road. Where the hot humid late July sun made it almost unbearable to be outside as our watches read nearly 1 pm in the afternoon.

Back in the car. The next stop was obvious. Radici Resort.  Time for a break, time to go over notes, and of course have a bite to eat.  Piero Mastroberardino, president of the winery, arrived about the same time and sat down and joined us.  We spoke about the day, what was going on in the vineyards, etc, etc.
And during the meal, after the appetizers and the first course, the conversation turned from lively to nearly silent.

It was time to open, pour and enjoy a glass of RediMore Irpinia Aglianico Doc 2012.

My silent thoughts and emotions nearly drowned out Mastroberardino and Dente as they continued their conversation...

Vineyard hopping 

full circle....


Further, more detailed information can be found here, in Italian, on Luciano Pignataro's Wine Blog.

Neroameta' Campania Bianco IGT 2013, Mastroberardino Winery (Av)

The bottle sat there on the coffee table.
Piero Mastroberardino's coffee table in his private office in Atripalda.  A lone unopened bottle waiting alongside  three place settings - three empty wine glasses.  I was about to begin a wine tasting featuring some of Mastroberardino Winery's latest white wines in the company of Piero Mastroberadino and enologist Massimo Di Renzo. And I was ready.
The bottle sat there while we tasted and chatted about the latest crus, I took notes, in silent anticipation of the newest member of the Mastroberardino family; Neroameta' Campania Bianco IGT 2013.  A wine presented at Vinitaly last week and tasted by few. (The winery only took 15 bottles to Verona, so you could imagine how quickly that went)

Neroameta' - a white wine made with Irpinia's most popular red grape - Aglianico. A white wine, made with red grapes, but not a rose'.
Maybe I should have known what that meant, surely I've read about that vinification process in my studies over the past years, maybe I had tasted a similar wine - but I decided to speak up and pose a question to Di Renzo.
How is this vinification process different than producing a rose', especially since the color - I noticed- is not, well for lack of better words...rose'.

Di Renzo told me that the grapes are placed in the press whole and gently pressed halfway in a manner that the must does not come in contact with the skins as it would with a rose'.
That being said, I was still curious about what would emerge from the bottle as it was poured first in my glass, then Mastroberardino's, then Di Renzo's.  A very light straw color, and depending on the lighting, and how you examined the glass, what was that? Grey tones?
The tasting began, Once again, I was silent first enjoying/interpreting the bouquet in the glass while I listened to Mastroberardino and Di Renzo's converstaion. (I have  always found it interesting to listen to wine makers discuss their wines)

Then I  took a quick taste, not sure what to expect.   What I found was pleasantly unexpected.  Evident was the powerful arm of Aglianico lovingly embracing the freshness and acidity that one would find in a young yet elegant and distinguished Irpinia white.
I kept my thoughts to myself for the moment, instead wanting to discuss particulars like the wine label.  Knowing that Mastroberardino is a talented artist, I was curious as to why he chose this particular design from his large inventory.
Mastroberardino arose, went to the back corner of his office/personal art gallery , and brought back a large framed version. He pointed out the strong feminine yet muscular arms, shoulders, and back.  A play on contrasts.
And the name?  Neroameta'?
One of several names that made the final cut.  Nero - black - for the blackish color of the Aglianico grape, for example.
While listening, I brought my glass of  Neroameta' to my nose several times, noticing how floral aromas were emerging and evolving. Young fresh white floral aromas.  Aromas that reminded Di Renzo of flowers that grow in his mother's garden.
Mastroberardino then shared that the concept of producing a white wine with Aglianico was not new at all for Mastroberardino.  His father, the late Dr. Antonio Mastroberardino produced a similar  wine back in the mid 80s named Plinius.  It was a popular wine that enjoyed 4 glorious vintages.  It was then decided to stop production and focus the winery's energy into promoting Fiano, Greco and Lacryma Christi.

photo courtesy of Mastroberardino Winery

So a new wine that is not so new?
Yes and no.  Learning from Dr Mastroberardino's notes from the 80s, the winery experimented new techniques.  The 3000 bottles produced spent about 10 months sur lees, for example.
Our conversation then continued to possible pairings. I myself could picture myself on a terrace of one of the many Campania restaurants which have an amazing view of the sea.  Enjoying the view and seafood that pair so well with Irpinia white wines.

It was time to move on to the next wine, but we decided to hang on to our glass of Neroameta'...as if waiting to see what this wine had to share with us as the tasting continued.  As our conversations continued - from art, to literature (Mastroberardino's latest book), then back to wine.
That is the beauty of a degustazione.
Discovering what a wine has to say.
Neroameta' will be available later this month.  It will be interesting to discover what Neroameta' will continue to share over the next few months...or years for that matter.

Mastroberardino Winery's 'Sentieri di Vite' - 30 Seconds, 1000 Emotions

I received an invitation from the Mastroberardino Winery a few weeks ago.  An invitation for a tasting of the latest wines?  No.  I looked closer and saw that it was something different.  I circled the date - 27 March - and place - Museo Madre (Na).

The museum was packed  full of scholars, artists, writers, journalists, and wine enthusiasts like me patiently listening as  Piero Mastroberardino explained  his latest project.  A project to break away from the business as usual form of communicating wines.  A wine world that he comes in contact with daily as  he skims through international wine magazines and guides and travels around the world promoting his family's historical winery.   A project which takes  his passion for his territory and melds it with his love of the arts. So he, alongside talented director Nicolangelo Gelormini,   shared with us their vision - a short  video  of life in the vineyard.

Piero Mastroberardino, journalist Rocco Moliterni, and Nicolangelo Gelormini

We were treated to this...

30 seconds.

1000 emotions.

Silence from the crowd as we reflected on what we had seen - then a roar of applause.  Applause that died down a bit only to watch the video again.  To absorb all that was happening.  To meditate, if you will, on the scenery which includes an Aglianico vineyard and a Chinese church altar.  To think about the  symbolism of wine as blood from the earth - sangue della terra.

The video continued to play throughout the rest of the evening.   Those of us who were treated to this world premiere screening enjoyed appetizers and a glass of wine or two as we discussed what we saw and what was to come ahead.

Yes, we were treated to this special screening, but there are big plans for Sentieri di Vite.  The video is  available by scanning the QR code on the back of the winery's bottles.  

Music and  striking images vs the usual technical data.

30 seconds.

1000 emotions.

Andiamotrips Auld Lang Syne - My Top Eno-gastronamic Adventures in 2014 - Part 1

January has always been a month for many to not only think of new resolutions for the upcoming year, but to look back on the last 12 months.
I decided to do both - beginning with a look back on some awesome memories from 2014. Where do I begin?  There was quite a bit going on...
Like my Snapshot series which is basically a fusion of my photography, wine tastings, and dinners.  In 2014, I managed to put together 4 different photo exhibits throughout Campania.
Here's a look back:

January 2014 -  Snapshot of a Territory with Cantina Di Meo and Chef Gianluca D'Agostino at Veritas Restaurant.

My first snapshot of the year focused on Fiano di Avellino.  The photos from this exhibit focused on two memorable visits with winemaker Roberto di Meo during the 2013 harvest period in Salza Irpina (Av).  I thought it would be pretty neat to team up his wines with Chef D'Agostino's menu.  A chef who though lives in Naples, has strong ties with Irpinia.  Memorable moments? The chef's squid with creamy cauliflower and the 'world premiere' of Di Meo's Selezione Erminia Di Meo Fiano di Avellino DOC 2000.

June 2014 - Snapshot of a Territory with Mastroberardino Winery and Chef Roberta Alloca at Relais Blu.

  My next snapshot was a look back at nearly 4 years of vineyard hopping.  I pulled together photos of my visit to the various Fiano, Falanghina  and Greco vineyards belonging to the Mastrobeardino Winery.  I thought it would be neat to taste their wines alongside Piero Mastrobeardino at Relais Blu - a restaurant with one of the most spectacular sunsets in Campania.  I also knew that Chef Roberto Allocca dishes would match up perfectly.  Memorable moments? A glass of Morabianca Falanghina 2013 alongside amazing appetizers. Seeing my photos displayed throughout Relais Blu wasn't so shabby, either. :-)

June 2014 - Snapshot of a Territory - Falerno Del Massico with Villa Matilde, Az. Agricola Gennaro Papa, Masseria Felicia, and Viticoltori Migliozzi.

This was a exhibit put together with photos taken during March of 2014.  An exhibit that took me to a territory outside of my comfort zone. Outside of my zone primarily because I visited wineries that I had never been to before in my vineyard hopping adventures.  These wineries are located in the Caserta province.  I visited Aglianico and Primitivo vineyards and tasted wines that deserve to be discussed at length.  And thanks to Villa Matilde and the Confraternita del Falerno, on June 20th I was able to display my black and white snapshots at a dinner with about 80 guests.  Memorable moments?  Sharing the spotlight with four different wineries while tasting some amazing reds.

August 2014 - Snapshot of a Territory - Il Fiano di Montefredane with Villa Diamante, Pietracupa, and Vadieaperti/Traerte. 

 Back to what many believe is my first love - in version bianco.  Fiano di Avellino.  When I was asked to participate in WIne Fredane, Third Edition in some capacity or another, I believed the best way would be to put together another photo exhibit focusing on the three wineries that are located in the small community of Montefredane in Avellino.  Memorable moments?  My snapshots displayed on the lawn of Tenuta Ippocrate.  A wine tasting featuring older vintages of Fiano di Avellino going back as far as 1993.

As I look back on Snapshot, I can't help to get excited about what's ahead...
Stay tuned...

Snapshot of the Day - Summer Reading - All'Origine Dei Sensi - Piero Mastroberardino

When Piero Mastroberardino handed me his latest book back in June during a wine tasting, I was honored and honestly a little intimidated.  I don't have a lot of time to read for pleasure, and this being a book of poems, in Italian,  well... But with school being out, I found the time to concentrate on what Mastroberardino, the poet, and not the wine producer, had to say.  After a month or so, my copy of the book is bent, with folded pages, full of notes in pencil taken when I came a cross a word or three that I didn't understand.  I have my favorites: page 20 - Come Nebbile Sottile, Like Thin Fog...or page 36 - Notte, Night.  One simple line:  Come tu solo sai donare luce.  

I like to think at the book  as an invitation, to see a side of an anima nad soul not only of the poet..but maybe a little of  ourselves as well.

 Come tu solo sai donare luce...

Snapshot of the Day - Fiano di Avellino Vintage DOCG 2002 - Mastroberardino Winery

If you like your Fianos young, you probably haven't tried this one.  I did for the first time last May at the winery's restaurant Morabianca in Mirabella Eclano (Av).  We've been inseparable ever since.

Mastroberardino Winery's Fiano di Avellino Vintage DOCG 2002.    

Vineyard Hopping - Pompeii (Na) - Mastroberardino Winery

Nearly 4 years have passed since I parked my car in front of the gates to the ruins of Pompeii.  It was a warm October day during the harvest  and  I was there to witness the 10th harvest in Mastroberadino Winery's vineyards located inside the ruins of that historical city.  Back then I was just breaking into the wonderful world of wine blogging, so I took meticulous notes, soaked in on all of the technical information during our tour of the various sites located throughout the city.  I soaked in the colors of the season, the leaves, the grapes, the workers in their blue uniforms picking Piedirosso of the vines.  I wrote about it here in October of 2010.

This visit was just as breathtaking for several reasons.  With a few more years of vineyard experience under my belt, I was able to appreciate the hard work, risks, and satisfaction that the winery has gone through since they began this journey back in 1996.  I was able to note the differences in how the grapes reacted in various sites throughout the ancient city. How Aglianico reacts to the alberello or free standing training system,.  I spent more time alone through the rows of vines, often leaving my small group which included a wine and food blogger for Sweden who was visiting this site for the first time.  From a distance, I could hear agronomist Antonio Dente explain the various phases of the project, the grapes, the history of the vineyards, and pointing out vines such as Aglianico grapes that had been grafted onto Piedirosso vines back in 2007.  I was surprised at how much I remembered from my trip a few years back.

The devotion to maintain the spirit of the project in conjunction with the archaeological superintendent of Italy while at the same time, produce a quality wine is impressive.  This project  would make the entire ancient city come back to life showing international tourists how life was like back before that fateful night back in 79 AD.

And since our group was international, we decided to leave the vineyards and join the tourists who came to visit Pompeii that hot Monday afternoon.  It was hard not to get caught up in the spirit and excitement of the small groups being led around the city, stopping to fill up their bottles of water, looking for a bit of shade under the sun, the oohs, the wows, the aahs...

wow...