Vun Andrea Aprea, Chef Andrea Aprea, Milan (Mi)
I first met Chef Andrea Aprea 4 years ago and have been following his
career from a distance ever since. Chef Andrea Aprea of the 2 Michelin starred
restaurant Vun Andrea Aprea located inside the Park Hyatt Hotel in Milan. Absence makes the heart grow fonder, or so
they say – but you can’t taste a photograph!
My appointment with the chef was
for 6:45 pm, I arrived at 6:40. I didn’t
want be late and miss a chance to chat with him before a busy Saturday night dinner
service.
The chef joined me in the La Cupola Lounge and began to share
with me his story which includes his thoughts and philosophies on his type of
cooking – his Italian Contemporary Cuisine.
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| Chef Andrea Aprea |
He took me back to the beginning of his career, to the mid/late 90s. A period where he, born and raised
in Naples, decided that he wanted to travel.
To explore. A period where – he shared
– there weren’t as many restaurant icons as there are today. Maybe about 1/10. In Italy, maybe 50 Michelin starred
restaurants. A totally different period
than today. It is that period where he
grew up. When working in a restaurant or
being a chef wasn’t looked at as cool or important. Practically the opposite. Today – he continued
– everyone wants to be a chef thanks to TV shows, etc.
So, it was that period when Aprea decided to travel. For
example, he worked nearly 6 years in England in restaurants such as Heston
Blumenthal’s Fat Duck, a year and a half in Kuala Lumpur, 2 years as sous chef
at Palazzo Sasso in Ravello. As he
travelled around, he learned more and more about high quality fine dining – but
also noted another side. That the
restaurant world was going in a particular direction. Beginning to globalize more and more. Everyone, it seemed was going in that
direction – he decided to go in the opposite.
He decided that he wanted to go back home – con la testa – with his head.
He decided to begin to valorize Neapolitan cuisine, traditions…Italian Contemporary Cuisine was born.
So after 12 years of travelling around, in 2008 Aprea was
offered an opportunity to return home.
Hotel Romeo in Naples was about to open a new restaurant – Il Comandante
– and Aprea was given his first position as head chef. He spent a little over 3
years there where – Aprea shared – he learned quite a bit about his
hometown. A beautiful experience – it was
his launching pad, so to speak. In 2011, for a variety of reasons – personal and
professional – he decided to leave for Milan.
To understand – and also respect and appreciate Aprea’s
decision to go north during that period, one must understand that 8 years ago,
Milan wasn’t well known for its gourmet restaurants. Aprea – a Neapolitan native arrived in the
heart of Milan and opened Vun Restaurant (vun is Milanese dialect for
one).
The choice of the name – Aprea admits
– was a decision that he had to be different.
He and his team worked hard that year – extremely hard. In fact, after just one year, Vun was awarded
a Michelin star. Four years later, the 2nd.
So let’s get back to that Italian contemporary cuisine – to Aprea’s
roots that he feels is extremely important and proud to share with his diners
at Vun. The chef told me something that
has stuck with me for the last couple of weeks.
His dishes are strongly rooted in valorizing the traditions and products
of the (primarily) Campania region. When
you taste something that you with ingredients and flavors that are familiar
with, you have the tools to compare/contrast and eventually judge or critique a
dish. If not, you are only able to say
whether you like it or not – but you are unable to judge.
Was I ready to judge?
Not judge – I admitted to the chef, but I did notice that it was nearly
time for my dinner reservation and I surely did not want to miss out. Aprea’s menu includes two tasting paths. One that is Neapolitan and another that
features his signature dishes.
The chef led me to the dining room, and after an aperitif, I
decided for the signature option (of course!) with a few other dishes thrown in
– I mean, who knew the next time I would be in Milan!
Here is a look –
Aprea's 80s style aperitif -
Caprese - salted and sweet. Who hasn't had mozzarella, basil and tomato? A chance to compare - dig deep into your memory file and reflect.
Anchovies! Who doesn't love these tiny fish? Here how Aprea's presents them - three ways.
Cuttlefish 'Diavola style'. That means spicy, y'all...
Selva egg 'purgatory style'. Warm, creamy, cheesy...fantasticaaa!
Potato amatriciana style 'in stagnola'. Yes, you can eat the 'aluminum foil'!
Next up, a dish that for me, was a taste of Neapolitan Sunday. Tortello pasta filled with buffalo milk ricotta cheese. The chef served it on top of a flavorful dense Neapolitan ragu sauce - tender beef included. Fantasticaaa!
Next up, dry cod with a dehydrated pizzaiola sauce. Once again, I reflected on Aprea's words from earlier in the evening. Salted cod I've grown to know and like/love in Campania. Could I compare this dish with ones from my memory file? Sure I could.
Pork slow cooked for 100 hours.Bitter, smoked, sweet and spicy sauces accompanied.
Time for dessert - confession - I don't have a 'good pic' of Aprea's Lemon Sensation predessert - but maybe you've seen videos of it. (?)
Instead, let's go straight to the desserts I savoured towards the end of my nearly relaxing 4 hour dinner.
Rhubarb - extra virgin olive oil, white chocolate, peanuts.
Roccoco'...
Coffee and small pastries...
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