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| Church of Santa Maria Maddalena ai Cristallini |
You did it! You’ve booked that dream vacation to Italy. It’s summer, you’re in Naples, and it’s scorching hot—really hot. Your urge to explore the historic center and indulge in delicious street foods has been thwarted by temperatures soaring into the high 90s°F. But does that mean you should skip Napoli? Absolutely not! Consider this an opportunity to discover beautiful museums and churches throughout the country—many of which are hidden gems—and, best of all, they offer a refreshing escape from the heat. Below, I’ve highlighted several spots in one of my favorite neighborhoods, Rione Sanità—be sure to check them out.
What makes this part of Naples so exciting for me? It’s the vibrant spirit of community! If you’re seeking a lively and energetic atmosphere, Rione Sanità is a must-visit while you’re in Naples. As a 'working-class' neighborhood, it can be bustling with locals going about their daily routines, depending on the time of day. These routines include shopping at various street markets where you can find just about anything, enjoying a coffee, or engaging in friendly conversations in the numerous small piazzas scattered throughout the district.
In the 1500s, this area was known as a valley celebrated for its fresh air, thanks to its location nestled between hills and its proximity to the catacombs where miraculous events took place. The noble community began to establish their homes here, and this route became a favored passage for the royal family traveling from the Reggia di Capodimonte to the heart of Naples. However, navigating this route often proved to be challenging, leading to the construction of a bridge. Over time, the Rione Sanità experienced a decline in traffic and eventually became isolated from the rest of the city.
After years of struggling with a negative reputation, the local citizens—especially the younger generation—have been diligently working to restore that vibrancy and 'traffic.'
The area is a vibrant mix of history, art, and a hint of lively chaos.
I recommend starting your visit by taking public transportation to one of the two Metro stops: the M1 line at MUSEO or the M2 line at PIAZZA CAVOUR. Avoid driving or renting a moped or Vespa; this is definitely a place where you want to immerse yourself by walking around and soaking in the culture.
While many attractions on my list can be visited independently, I discovered an agency while booking a tour to the catacombs, which was fantastic! They offer a wonderful website in English where you can book weekly walking tours and purchase admission tickets to the catacombs. (Catacombs of Naples and Rione Sanità)
The Catacombs of San Gaudioso, an ancient cemetery beneath the Basilica of Santa Maria della Sanità, date back to the 3rd century AD. Named after Saint Gaudioso, the site features around 40 tombs, including those of saints and martyrs, with some adorned in frescoes and mosaics. Exploring this underground world offers a unique glimpse into history, dating back to the 2nd century, beneath the bustling streets of Naples.
My visit here.
This basilica is a stunning example of early 1600s Neapolitan Baroque architecture, featuring a spacious interior and an impressive staircase that evokes the idea of a 'stairway to heaven.' Beneath it lie the catacombs of San Gaudioso, accessible only via guided tours, making it a worthwhile visit either independently or as part of a tour.
The basilica, nicknamed 'Piccolo San Pietro', is modeled after St. Peter's Basilica and located in Capodimonte. It offers visitors a chance to explore the catacombs of San Gennaro. Founded by Maria Gesu Landi, born in Naples in 1861, she was deeply religious and believed to have performed miracles, including ending a cholera epidemic after showing a portrait of the Mother of Good Counsel. After the basilica's completion in 1920, more miracles were reported, such as during the 1980 earthquake when a marble bust of the Madonna fell without causing harm.
After visiting the Catacombs of San Gaudioso, be sure to check out the other catacomb, as a ticket to one grants a free year-long entrance to the other. The English tour is excellent, lasting about an hour, with well-prepared guides. Exploring underground Naples reveals a fascinating historical world dating back to the 2nd century.
My visit here.
The Jago Museum is located in the Chiesa di Sant'Aspreno ai Crociferi which dates back to the 17th century. The sculptor Jago, has adopted this church in the 'Rione Sanità' area of the historic center of Naples to display his recent series of work in marble-all inspired by historic works of arts. Jago puts himself into his art literally and each piece has a story to tell.
My first visit here.
This spot is a great final stop on a guided tour of the catacombs of San Gennaro. A side door leads to the San Gennaro dei Poveri Hospital courtyard, highlighting the link between Capodimonte and Rione Sanità. The Basilica can be accessed via the catacombs at Via Capodimonte, 13. Additionally, the renowned Veiled Son by Jago is included in your ticket to the Jago Museum.
In Naples' Rione Sanità, the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena ai Cristallini got a fresh makeover thanks to the “La Paranza” Cooperative. They turned it into a modern art spot that reflects the community's comeback. Locas painted the inside blue, giving it a cool vibe, and famous artists created murals of local folks, putting them in the spotlight through art.
The Ipogeo dei Cristallini is all about those cool Hellenistic vibes with its paintings and architecture. It's got four rooms decked out with bright decorations and those trippy trompe l’oeil effects. Plus, there’s a bunch of ancient artifacts and vases that are still looking pretty fresh. When you visit, you’re basically stepping back 2300 years into this underground wonderland, soaking up all the ancient art goodness and having a think about life, death, love, care, family, and friendship.
My visit here.
As you wrap up your journey through the captivating neighborhood of Rione Sanità, remember that these stops are more than just historical treasures; they are perfect havens to beat the summer heat. Each site offers a cool, serene escape from the sweltering sun, allowing you to immerse yourself in art, history, and culture without breaking a sweat. So, as you explore the catacombs or admire the intricate architecture of the basilicas, you'll find a refreshing respite from the hustle and bustle of Naples. Enjoy your adventure and stay cool!
