Merry Minestra Maritata - This Christmas Part 3

What is it about this little minestra maritata - this married soup that makes it a must have on any table in Campania during the holiday season?  I've been asking myself that question since I first tried the dish nearly 25 years ago. 

Chef Lorenzo Montoro

I prepared it quite often myself over the years, but recently I wanted to learn more about its story - its roots.   So I headed out to the country.  To Montoroerbe in Lavorate di Sarno to take a walk the fields  with Michelin starred chef Lorenzo Montoro and his brother Dario at their family's farm. It was Montoro who showed me how he prepares a gourmet version of this country comfort food 4 year's ago here.  The ingredients are simple and seasonal.  Vegetables found during the winter months.  When green takes over the landscape.  Gone are the colors of the summer; the reds of the tomatoes, violets and purples from the eggplants, and the colorful bell peppers.  Instead, herbs grow spontaneosly - as well such as leafy greens like friarielli greens, Christmas broccoli, escarole, torzelle, chicory,  chard and borragine.

After a tour, we met up with Lorenzo's brother Dario who prepared a case of greens for me.

Dario Montoro

It was here that Dario reminded me of other ingredients that belong in this minestra.  Pork such as pig's head and/or sausage - which, he jokingly added, I would have to get on my own. A dish made rich thanks to the cuts of meat which back in the day was not eaten every day since it was costly.  Pork, along with beef are used to make a broth then married to the greens.

All that walking and talking made us a little hungry, so Montoro took me out to lunch at the nearby Trattoria O'Romano in Sarno.  It would be the perfect place to learn a little more about he dish and get some background from Chef Gaetano Cerrato.




Here you can get a good look at how the winter greens are married with cuts of beef, sausage, pig's skin, crusty bread and cheese. 

I made this cozy comfort food today and as the aromas from the soup floated through the house, I reflected on what makes this the perfect dish for the season.  .  It's a dish, in its modesty and humbleness, has the power to bring people together, make them feel good about themselves and others.  It's a comfort food that does what the holidays should do.

Fantasticaaa!

This Christmas -Buon Natale, Tutti - Part 1

I remember my first Campania Christmas more than 20 years ago.  Days and days of nonstop eating from the 24th of December to the 6th of January.  Flavors and recipes much different than I had grown up with.  I must confess that I love my turkey and stuffing, but I thought it would be neat to ask some of Campania's top gourmet chefs what dishes are found on their family's holiday tables.  What dishes they grew up with - what memories have followed them throughout their careers - what dishes they cannot live without.
It was interesting to note that at home - each chef sticks with tradition, and almost all of the dishes are prepared by their moms, mother-in-laws and/or grandmothers.

Chef Lorenzo Montoro

Chef Lorenzo Montoro ( Il Flauto di Pan, Ravello) is from Sarno.  His family is rooted in traditions from the Sarno region - they even own a farm that produces quality herbs and vegetables for many of the top restaurants in Italy.  Fried codfish, stuffed escarole, and fried eel are musts. Eel and river shrimp are typical farmer's dishes in the area since for many farmers, fish was out of their price range.  Another typical dish?  Broccoli, simply boiled and topped with lemon and olive oil.

Chef Domenico Stile

Chef Domenico Stile (Enoteca La Torre, Rome) is from Gragnano.  His family also sticks with tradition with dishes such as fried codfish and reinforcement salad.  This sald is quite popular during the season with ingredients such as cauliflower, Neapolitan peppers aka papacelle, green and black olives and capers. On Christmas Day?  Lasagna with meatballs ( made with ground beef and sausage), hard boiled eggs, and chiodini mushrooms.

Chef Angelo Carannante

Chef Angelo Carannante (Caracol, Bacoli). One of Carannante's dishes that he cannot live without is his mother-in-law's reinforcement salad.  It wouldn't be Christmas without  her version that includes anchovies.  The chef assured me that it is really really good!

Chef Antonio Lebano

Chef Antonio Lebano (Terrazza Gallia, Milan)  A few weeks ago I was in Milan and spoke with this young chef about his holiday traditions.  Lebano is from the Vesuvius area, and his eyes shone brightly as he spke to me about this Christmas Eve snack from his childhood.  Pane cafone, escarole, piennolo tomatoes (produced by his uncle) , and anchovies.  I made some myself today.  Fantasticaaa!

Chef Domenico Candela

Chef Domenico Candela (George Restaurant, Naples) Candela is from Marano, a small town in the Naples province.  And though he has spent years outside of Naples, primarily in France, his heart is rooted in traditions from his beloved Napoli.  So what can we find at his family's Christmas table? Many fish based dishes.  One that sticks out?  His mother's linguine allo scoglio - linguine with seafood such as mussels, shrimp, and  clams.

Chef Antonino Montefusco

Chef Antonino Montefusco (Terrazza Bosquet, Sorrento).  Montefusco shares with his diners a dessert that his mother has prepared for years during the holiday season.  Mostaccioli.  This typical Neapolitan recipe includes a dough that needs to rest for at least 5 days before baked, then glazed with white sugar and a cocoa.

Boun Natale, tutti!

Last Friday Night - 8 Hands Dinner, Ristorante Il Principe, Pompei (na)

What are you guys up to?  I asked Chef Gian Marco Carli – a message that I sent to Chef Carli after I noticed a post on ig stories.  Carli, along with Francesco Sodano, Lorenzo Montoro, and Crescenzo Scotti shared a picture of themselves having lunch and planning an 8 hands dinner less than 2 weeks away…

You guys are crazy- I thought.  But I was very very very curious...

As the days went by, my curiosity gt the better of me – I mean –come on, Carli – who  I havd visited in the past, decided to host 3 ‘brand spanking new’ Michelin stared chefs in his kitchen. Chefs that I have grown to admire over the years – I had to attend!

Karma had other plans – however.  The date planned was for Friday the 13t, it was a full moon, and there was even a weather advisory that had affected the areas surrounding I Principe in Pompeii. 

My car had even decided to ‘throw away’ a windshield wiper on my way to the dinner.

That is probably one of the reasons why I appreciated this incontro between the chefs, friends, amici. 

After my arrival, I took a quick tour in the kitchen, caught up on the latest news, and then sat down at my table next to the bar.

 Time to eat!  Wines provided by Omna Romania

Aperitif – of course.  Each chef contributed…..

Chef Gian Marco Carli's Cesar salad

Chef Crescenzo Scotti's Fried montanara pizza with a rabbit sausage and friarielli greens...

Chef Francesco Sodano's cornmeal pasta disc, sheep cheese ricotta, herring eggs and anchovies.

Chef Lorenzo Montoro's steamed baba', goat milk ricotta cheese and herring.

Then the appetizers…

Montoro's vegetable soup which traveled through the gardens and Campanian seas.

Sodano's  roasted marango tartare, fermented certriolo, egg yolk and toasted onion.

First course…

Resident chef Carli's  capelletti pasta filled with codfish tripe and provola, roasted tomato sauce crispy codfish skin, olive oil and parsely.

Second course….

Chef Scotti's slow cooked  suckling pig with figs and escarole.

Dessert…

Montoro' s annurca apple sorbet cinnamon crumble and mandarin orange compote alongside Scotti's Roccoco' in a glass. 

Carli's Almond and carrot cake, custard with curry, paprika and creme fraiche.

 Sodano's Ammazzacaffe'

With a special surprise by Chef Gaetano Torrente…from his beloved hometown of Cetara (Sa). Spaghetti with anchovy sauce...

E allora???

Last Friday night?  An evening fantasticaaa!