Merry Minestra Maritata - This Christmas Part 3

What is it about this little minestra maritata - this married soup that makes it a must have on any table in Campania during the holiday season?  I've been asking myself that question since I first tried the dish nearly 25 years ago. 

Chef Lorenzo Montoro

I prepared it quite often myself over the years, but recently I wanted to learn more about its story - its roots.   So I headed out to the country.  To Montoroerbe in Lavorate di Sarno to take a walk the fields  with Michelin starred chef Lorenzo Montoro and his brother Dario at their family's farm. It was Montoro who showed me how he prepares a gourmet version of this country comfort food 4 year's ago here.  The ingredients are simple and seasonal.  Vegetables found during the winter months.  When green takes over the landscape.  Gone are the colors of the summer; the reds of the tomatoes, violets and purples from the eggplants, and the colorful bell peppers.  Instead, herbs grow spontaneosly - as well such as leafy greens like friarielli greens, Christmas broccoli, escarole, torzelle, chicory,  chard and borragine.

After a tour, we met up with Lorenzo's brother Dario who prepared a case of greens for me.

Dario Montoro

It was here that Dario reminded me of other ingredients that belong in this minestra.  Pork such as pig's head and/or sausage - which, he jokingly added, I would have to get on my own. A dish made rich thanks to the cuts of meat which back in the day was not eaten every day since it was costly.  Pork, along with beef are used to make a broth then married to the greens.

All that walking and talking made us a little hungry, so Montoro took me out to lunch at the nearby Trattoria O'Romano in Sarno.  It would be the perfect place to learn a little more about he dish and get some background from Chef Gaetano Cerrato.




Here you can get a good look at how the winter greens are married with cuts of beef, sausage, pig's skin, crusty bread and cheese. 

I made this cozy comfort food today and as the aromas from the soup floated through the house, I reflected on what makes this the perfect dish for the season.  .  It's a dish, in its modesty and humbleness, has the power to bring people together, make them feel good about themselves and others.  It's a comfort food that does what the holidays should do.

Fantasticaaa!