Campi Flegrei and Then Some-Riccio Restaurant - Baia Port (Na)

 

A pleasant stroll on a windy summer day on the port of Baia...and then I arrived.  My reservation was for 1 pm, and I believe that I was quite punctual, if I must say so myself.  As I was getting my bearings, I saw her from a distance.  Her- Roberta Di Meo- who greeted with a warm handshake and even warmer smile welcoming me to her restaurant-Riccio Restaurant.

This was my first time to Riccio, so Di Meo kindly filled me in on the small ristorante's background story.  It was then that I learned that she opened the restaurant back in 2016 with her father, Salvatore.  Their intention was to share their passion for Campi Flegrei- not just in the cuisine, but in the local wines as well. So slowly over time- and the addition of Chef Agostino Alboretto the restaurant grew and is a favorite spot in the area.

Di Meo handed me the wine list- which features local wines as well as national/international offerings.  I chose a Falanghina from Contrada Salandra - a wine which would pair perfectly with the chef's fish based menu.

Let's talk about the chef's menu.  Alboretto is all about no waste, sustainability, seasonality, and of course full on flavor.  And not because it is in style- it is part of this young chef's DNA.  So that is why I decided to put myself in his hands.  The chef did not disappoint.  We decided to focus on amazing appetizers and first courses.  

Take a look...

Amazing appetizers included a raw seafood platter with tartufi di mare/sea truffles, razor clams, shrimp, and oyster.

Then ...

Tuna tartare and guacamole

 with citrus sauce

Shrimp and lemon foam

cuttlefish with oil, lemon and cuttlefish ink salt

carpaccio of mahi mahi and basil crumble

Alboretto thought, that for the next set of appetizers, a trip to the dry ageing refrigerator was necessary.  There he was able to pull out some of his seafood salamis that fit in perfectly with Riccio's no waste philosophy...

The cured fish : tuna speck, swordfish bresaola and amberjack belly

Riccio's  dry ageing refrigerator - with plans to expand

Time to warm things up-still in the appetizer area-

grilled octopus with mushrooms

Cod grenadine and Phlegraean broccoli

Skipjack burger

lampuga- known as a 'pesce azzuro magro' a light blue fish. this is one of the fish that you'll find in the markets this season, an consequently, on the table in restaurants such as Riccio Restaurant - Baia Porto. chef Agostino Alboretto served me a fillet with escarole and black olives...on the side

razor clams au gratin

Let's go back to the topic of no waste- here is Alboretto's seafood tripe featuring the 'fifth quarter' of amberjack and grouper, a squid ink crumble, potato cream and parsley chlorophyll 

Time for a first course or two-  the fall season called and Ricco Restaurant answered-  with

 a pumpkin risotto with cuttlefish and porcini miushrooms....

Spaghetti with razor clams...

Second course- I had to pass.  (I'll return)...but I did go for a dessert.  Babà with a glass of La Sibilla's Passio 2013 dessert wine made with Falanghina...

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Un post condiviso da karenp (@andiamotrips)

A peerfect dessert to top off a perfect afternoon in Baia...Definitely a not to miss spot-not only for the food, location, but also for the spirit of Roberta, Agostino, and Salvatore...

Scusa, but I had to take a selfie!!!  A presto!

from left to right, me, Salvatore Di Meo, Roberta Di Meo and Agostino Alboretto

 

Fantasticaaa Ischia

 

View of Sant Angelo

One of my favorite places in Campania has to be Ischia.  The big green island has a special place in my heart. There is sooo much to do here- from lounging around the beach, hiking, thermal spas, or visiting historical gardens or castles.

Recently, I created a list of some of my top places to visit on the island.

It is by no means a 'Top 10' or any other type of classification. In fact, the list is in a random order. Check out the interactive map below!

Bar Ristorante Ida

Restaurants

1.Ristorante La Grotte Del Fiore

2. Corbaro Park Restaurant

3. Azienda Agricola U'Scilatur

4. Il Monastero

5. Ristorante Bar Da Cocò

6. Trattoria Il Focolare

7. Chalet Ferdinando a Mare

8. Ischia Salumi

9. Garden Fruit Ischia

10.Dani Maison

11.Ristorante Indaco

12. Bar Ristorante Ida

13. Porto 51

14. HotelVilla Sirena

Negombo

Thermal Spas

1. Negombo

2. Parco Termale Giardini Poseidon

3. Parco Castiglione Resort & Spa

Antonio Mazzella during the harvest

Wineries

1. Cantine Antonio Mazzella

2. Cenatiempo Vini D'Ischia

3. D'Ambra Vini D'Ischia

Places mapped by Wanderlog, a trip planner on iOS and Android

The Courage to Dream, Bugiarda Style- Hosteria Bugiarda, Bacoli (Na)

 

Chef Luigi Costigliola and Restaurant Manager Luca Costagliola

Ok, but why is the restaurant named Bugiarda? I asked with a smile and giggle.    That was one of my questions during my pre pre-dessert chit chat with Chef Luigi Costigliola and  Restaurant Manager Luca Costagliola in Hostaria Bugiarda’s cool cozy dining room last Sunday afternoon.  You see, bugiarda in Italian means liar – and I had just spent the last couple of hours with these two cousins who  took me on an enogastronomical journey full of flavors, creativity, some surprises-but no lies.

A journey which began soon after Luca showed me to my comfy corner booth and asked me what I’d like to drink.  You decide, please, was my response, but let’s try to keep it in Campania. 

Montenuovo Rosé Campi Flegrei  Piedirosso, Cantine Babbo 

 

Luca poured a glass, I sipped as Luigi sent out his welcome- pane e panelle – a fried chickpea sandwich on a homemade bun.

                                               

Off to a good start.  Let’s take a look at how the rest of the trip went. I put myself in their capable hands. 

Appetizers- I tried 3.  

Beef tartar, quail and a fried parmigiana ball. 

For this part of the trip, Costagliola opened up a bottle of Coda Di Volpe, Vadiaperte.

Pasta and potatoes.  

But don’t let your eyes fool you.  This is not a plate of pasta, but Costigliola’s twist on the popular pasta dish.  This appetizer, though, is made entirely with potatoes – from the spaghetti shaped curls to the purple potato cubes representing pancetta cubes. 

Squid with a creamy cicerchie sauce on top of a panzanella salad.

First course – I tried 2.

Fettucine with red shrimp, basil, and roasted eggplant colatura sauce.

Fiano di Avellino DOCG Fiano di Avellino,  Colli di Lapio

Tortello alla nerano with mussels from Miseno.

 

Second course – I tried their catch of the day.

Purple potato crusted sea bass with leek cooked at low temperature and wrapped in kataifi dough.

Now it was time for the pre- dessert, you know, at the point where this blog post began.  Where Chef Costigliolo stepped out of the kitchen for a chiacchierata.  It was during this part of the trip where I learned quite a bit about the two cousins.  Costigliola (33 years old), son of a chef, at the tender age of 13 decided that he wanted to follow in his father’s footsteps.   The chef has worked in Hamburg, London, as well as Rome, Milan, and his home Campi Flegrei. Luca Costagliola (30 years old) went down a different path- the dining room, working at home in various locations around Bacoli as well as Rome.  In June of 2019 they decided to open up Hosteria Bugiarda. 

Ok, chef,  but why is the restaurant named Bugiarda? I asked with a smile and giggle.    

Luca and I are liars from birth- he answered, this time it was his turn to laugh. 

Then I learned the truth.  Back in the day, in the area,  many families had the same or similar last names.  To avoid confusion, people were given nicknames, like bugiarda.  Liar.

So…that out of the way, it was time to get back to our journey.  The sweet stops – bugiarda style.

Pre- dessert- Panna cotta with cardamom, citrus crumble and apricot jam.

Dark raspberry.

Amaro Formidabile by Armando Bomba. We left Campania and went to Rome for this one.

 Petit four

Shortcrust pastry tart, yellow cream and apricot

Savarin coconut and white chocolate

Chocolate truffle

So, the end of my lunch, the end of my journey.  On my way out the door, I couldn't help but notice these words on the wall...words that I think fit perfectly.

The world lies in the hands of those that have the courage to dream and who take the risk of living out their dreams - Paolo Coelho.

Buon lavoro, ragazzi!