Saturday, August 14, 2021

Hot in the City - Bothanica, Fuorigrotta (Na)

 


Karen, have you spoken to Giuseppe lately?  Do you know he opened up a restaurant? 

Really?  I asked my friend Luca.  Where?

In the city...

It has been a couple of years since I had seen Giuseppe.  A couple of crazy years, so, no- I was unaware that after last summer in Ischia, my friend, maître sommelier Giuseppe Di Ruocco had recently opened up a restaurant in Fuorigrotta in Naples. 

Bothanica.

Bothanica is a green oasis in the heart of the city, not far from downtown Naples.  Not far from the soccer stadium, right next to a very busy hospital.  But you soon forget all that as you turn down the dirt road that takes you into a place world’s away from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Naples is like that.  It has hidden pockets of peace that let you take a little break form the city without leaving the city.

It is in this little pocket where Di Ruocco and Mario Maselli opened up Bothanica e few months ago.  Bothanica – a concept where Di Ruocco could express his passion for nature, good food and great wine all in one area verde.  A garden party to be shared with enthusiasts who have the same appetite as he does.

I arrived at 730 pm, in time to have an aperitif and a chat with Di Ruocco as he served me their farm drink – Bothanica di Terra; gin with infusion of Mediterranean herbs, and tonic water. 



 

It was time to held over to the table, mine was next to a swing tied to one of the many trees which circled Bothanica’s outside dining room.  Soft music in the background, a cool breeze, a glance at the menu.

A menu which gives you a choice of a la carte or 3 tasting menus.  Bothanica Antica, Bothanica Terra, Bothanica Mare.  I chose Terra.



Here’s a look.

Clockwise from the top left corner-zucchini 'ex apicio', pelatello salami and sheep cacciota cheese, 
eggplant parmigiana, Tropea onion omelette and wild pucchiacchela, grilled ricotta in walnut leaves.

When it came to decide on the wine, I took a look at the list and found these words-



Giuseppe Di Ruocco

it is not a wine list

it’s fermentation,

research,

tastings,

vineyard wines,

stories of winemakers,

tales of bold people,

back to nature,

a hymn, a toast ...

I decided to let Di Ruocco choose the wines and he introduced me to two wines, two wineries.

For my appetizer- La Terapia, Casavecchia from Il Vino del Professore – a small winery located in the small town of Castel di Sasso, in the province of Caserta.





Instead, for the rest of the meal, we travelled to Montemarano in the heart of Irpinia wine country.  Volpe Rossa from La Cantina di Enza.  One of the few wineries that produces wines with the basically unknown red grape- Coda di Volpe.  Di Ruocco opened up a young 2015, seasoned my glass before pouring for me.




This glass accompanied me with a fantastic first of candele pasta alla Genovese.  A dish which I associate with cooler months.  Instead, I know realize that one of my favorite pasta dishes, when prepared right, can be served all year long. Compliments to Chef Napoleone Caffarelli.




 For my second course – we hopped into the Bothanica Antica menu.  For a bite or two of muzzariello (a spicy sausage often used in minestra maritata) with potatoes cooked under ashes and fried green peppers.




Dessert – a chocolatey off the menu choco power.


I didn’t just have my nose in the glass and fork in my mouth.  I chose to spend my first evening at Bothanica taking a look around, taking a walk around.  Soft music from the deejay.  Children of all ages enjoying the swings, the company, the fresh air.  Enjoying that pocket of peace in the city without leaving the city…

 

Tuesday, August 10, 2021

The Courage to Dream, Bugiarda Style- Hosteria Bugiarda, Bacoli (Na)

 

Chef Luigi Costigliola and Restaurant Manager Luca Costagliola

Ok, but why is the restaurant named Bugiarda?
I asked with a smile and giggle.    That was one of my questions during my pre pre-dessert chit chat with Chef Luigi Costigliola and  Restaurant Manager Luca Costagliola in Hostaria Bugiarda’s cool cozy dining room last Sunday afternoon.  You see, bugiarda in Italian means liar – and I had just spent the last couple of hours with these two cousins who  took me on an enogastronomical journey full of flavors, creativity, some surprises-but no lies.

A journey which began soon after Luca showed me to my comfy corner booth and asked me what I’d like to drink.  You decide, please, was my response, but let’s try to keep it in Campania. 


Montenuovo Rosé Campi Flegrei  Piedirosso, Cantine Babbo 

 

Luca poured a glass, I sipped as Luigi sent out his welcome- pane e panelle – a fried chickpea sandwich on a homemade bun.




                                               



Off to a good start.  Let’s take a look at how the rest of the trip went. I put myself in their capable hands. 

Appetizers- I tried 3.  


Beef tartar, quail and a fried parmigiana ball. 


For this part of the trip, Costagliola opened up a bottle of Coda Di Volpe, Vadiaperte.



Pasta and potatoes.  



But don’t let your eyes fool you.  This is not a plate of pasta, but Costigliola’s twist on the popular pasta dish.  This appetizer, though, is made entirely with potatoes – from the spaghetti shaped curls to the purple potato cubes representing pancetta cubes. 





Squid with a creamy cicerchie sauce on top of a panzanella salad.



First course – I tried 2.




Fettucine with red shrimp, basil, and roasted eggplant colatura sauce.



Fiano di Avellino DOCG Fiano di Avellino,  Colli di Lapio


Tortello alla nerano with mussels from Miseno.

 

Second course – I tried their catch of the day.


Purple potato crusted sea bass with leek cooked at low temperature and wrapped in kataifi dough.


Now it was time for the pre- dessert, you know, at the point where this blog post began.  Where Chef Costigliolo stepped out of the kitchen for a chiacchierata.  It was during this part of the trip where I learned quite a bit about the two cousins.  Costigliola (33 years old), son of a chef, at the tender age of 13 decided that he wanted to follow in his father’s footsteps.   The chef has worked in Hamburg, London, as well as Rome, Milan, and his home Campi Flegrei. Luca Costagliola (30 years old) went down a different path- the dining room, working at home in various locations around Bacoli as well as Rome.  In June of 2019 they decided to open up Hosteria Bugiarda. 

Ok, chef,  but why is the restaurant named Bugiarda? I asked with a smile and giggle.    

Luca and I are liars from birth- he answered, this time it was his turn to laugh. 

Then I learned the truth.  Back in the day, in the area,  many families had the same or similar last names.  To avoid confusion, people were given nicknames, like bugiarda.  Liar.

So…that out of the way, it was time to get back to our journey.  The sweet stops – bugiarda style.

Pre- dessert- Panna cotta with cardamom, citrus crumble and apricot jam.


Dark raspberry.





Amaro Formidabile by Armando Bomba. We left Campania and went to Rome for this one.


 Petit four

Shortcrust pastry tart, yellow cream and apricot

Savarin coconut and white chocolate

Chocolate truffle

So, the end of my lunch, the end of my journey.  On my way out the door, I couldn't help but notice these words on the wall...words that I think fit perfectly.

The world lies in the hands of those that have the courage to dream and who take the risk of living out their dreams - Paolo Coelho.

Buon lavoro, ragazzi!




 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



Monday, August 9, 2021

Slices of Summer - Kuma 65, Bacoli (Na)



Summer.  The perfect time to relax and do whatever you want to do.  Last week, my whatever I want to do included going out for a pizza.  My whatever I want to do included trying Kuma 65 in nearby Bacoli for the first time.  I called to reserve a table for 8 pm.



I sat down at a table just on the edge of Lake Fusaro with a glass of spumante and a gentle breeze to keep me company.  Kuma 65 is a restaurant/pizzeria with a wide array of menu items which seemed to be calling my name.  Maybe next time, I answered back -  this evening I want  a pizza.  So when Luigi, my serve,r came over to take my order, that was exactly what I told him.

But first, let's start with an appetizer -  Kuma 65's cheesecake di tonno rosso/red tuna cheesecake.


Red tuna tartare with stracciatella buffalo mozzarella and toasted croutons.


Then my pizza Kuma 65's Cetara, which, to me, is a southern Italian summer season disguised as a pizza.


Let's begin with the name - Cetara, a small fisherman's village located on the Amalfi Coast famous for their anchovies. They shared the plate with fresh zucchini flowers, sheep milk ricotta cheese and fresh basil.  Summer.

What is summer without a glass of wine?  Fiano di Avellino Guido Marsella 2018.


So the next time I want to do whatever I want to do, I'll seriously consider heading back to Kuma 65.  I mean, there are still those menu items who were calling my name. 



Wednesday, August 4, 2021

There's No Place Like ... Home - Piccola Osteria Alternativa, Bacoli (Na)

 


"Click your heels together three times and say 'There's no place like home' and you'll be there." Words spoken to Dorothy by Glinda the Good Witch in the film The Wizard of Oz. 

I thought about those words as I headed out to Bacoli last Saturday for lunch.  I did not have ruby slippers as Dorothy did in the film, but I did have on my favorite pair of black high top sneakers.  Will that work? I laughed to myself as my son and I pulled into the parking lot off a narrow street in a cozy little neighborhood.  Right across the street from Home- Piccola Osteria Alternative, the Chef Tommaso Di Meo’s newest adventure which he opened up at the end of June.

It was our first time home, and we were greeted by the following phrase un our way up the stairs…..

what you have never seen, you'll find  where you have never been

...and our very hospitable server, Felice Esposito.  Esposito led us across the attractive dining room to a table by the large sliding glass window.  A window that allowed a pleasant breeze that helped to beat the heat that hit the Campania region of the last couple of weeks. A few minutes pass, just a few, and we were joined by Chef Di Meo.  We looked over the menu together- a menu which features Di Meo’s home cooking. 

Another few minutes and our lunch at home began starting with an aperitif and a glass of wine.

Empanadas stuffed with smoked burrata and spinach with an aglianico pork fillet

                            Torrefumo Campi Flegrei Falanghina DOP 2018 Cantine del Mare

Fantasie dello Chef Mare e Terra;  an amazing appetizer featuring items from land and sea.

Tuna tartare with nectarine


Potato salad with  marinated mussels 

Arancino with  burrata cheese and prawns and a green tomato compote



Eggplant parmigiana with cacio cheese sauce


Sandwich with porchetta and yogurt sauce


Beef carpaccio with figs


(I loved the potato salad-my son the tartar)

Moving along, for the first course I chose spaghettone (Mancini) with seafood, basil and lemon.


While my son went for mezzi paccheri pasta with octopus ragout and cruschi pepper powder.



Luckily Di Meo’s homemade bread and breadstick basket was nearby so that we were able to soak up the sauce left behind on the vibrant colorful ceramic dishes.

Second course…

I stayed on the mare and terra path with fried cuttlefish and eggplant…


While my son chose lauticauda lamb roulade with marinated zucchini, which he had been thinking about since we sat down.



 Sadly we skipped dessert, but from what we noticed from the other diners, our next visit would definitely include Di Meo’s homemade desserts.

 


Yes, we would definitely be coming back.  It’s nice to go out and find a place that makes you feel at home.

From left to right- Valentina Simeoli, Chef Tommaso Di Meo, Felice Esposito and Roberta Testa

All we need to do is just "Click your heels together three times and say 'There's no place like home' and you'll be there."

 

 

 

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