The Christmas holidays are full of traditions, especially in Campania! Especially at the table!!!
The perfect opportunity to visit Michelin star chef Antonino Montefusco of Terrazza Bosquet in Sorrento to see what he had in store for those who decided to spend Christmas at his table...
Chef Antonino Montefusco
The chef invited me into his kitchen to check out four holiday recipes beginning with an his appetizer. Codfish and reinforcement salad.
Next, a twist on a classic spaghetti and clams, Montefusco proposes a ravioli stuffed with clams.
La minestra maritata or as we say in English, wedding soup ,is a definite must!
And for dessert? Roccoco'! Montefusco's version is a little different, though it still has the fantastic flavors of Christmas in Campania!
A glass of sparkling wine is the perfect way to kick off the Christmas season. Here's a look at Sommelier Francesco Sicignano of Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant as he opens a bottle for me in the kitchen!
After nearly 24 years in Campania and numerous visits to Vietri Sul Mare, I've always turned left at the exit, never right. Until that rainy afternoon in which I decided to have lunch atRe Mauri',a small gourmet restaurant that has escaped my radar since its opening in 2014 - even after earning a Michelin star in 2016.
I took the exit, just as the light rain turned into a heavy downpour, making me almost miss the entrance to the restaurant. I parked, was escorted into Re Mauri'.
Bellissimo! my first reaction. A small dining room featuring a lovely rain soaked terrace tiled in Vietri Sul Mare blue. I turned, greeted Chef Lorenzo Cuomo, a quick chat, tour of the kitchen and then I was led to my seat by Maitre Sommelier Roberto Adduono. Adduono showed me the water list - I chose a natural carbonated bottle from northern Portugal -Vidago.
Then, time for an cocktail...an oyster cocktail prepared table side!
As Adduono poured my cocktail, I noticed that the rain had stopped. The rain stopped, the sky cleared, and the sun came out just in time for an aperitif.
Mozzaerella panna cotta with a Mazara red shrimp carpaccio and a marinated egg yolk.
and a glass of rose' champagne, produced especially for Re Mauri by Pascal Redon.
and octopus alla luciana with creamy smoked potatoes and cucumella powder...
leading to an array of appetizers to satisfy every palate...
Lobster in brown butter, caramelized endive, creamy sea herbs and green apple.
Rabbit with creamy codfish ice cream and cedrina herbs...
Veal head and roasted octopus with 'antique' potatoes, pesto and lemon.
Sunday afternoon. And I decided to head to Caiazzo to try a pizza or three made by Franco Pepe A familiar pilgrimage that I've made who knows how many times over the last 6 years. During those years a lot has changed for my amico pizzaiolo. He opened up Pepe in Grani...then added a bed and pizza so visitors could have a place to stay-right in the pizzeria! Then he added a tasting room for those looking for something extra. He added a second pizza oven. Deepened his wine list. Oh, and did I mention, became one, if not the top, pizza makers in the world.
One thing that I love about Pepe, besides the pizza, is his desire to evolve. To continue to look for ways to make Pepe in Grani not just a pizza place...but a pizza experience.
An authentic experience.
.
I arrived in Franco's little viale right before the crowds. I entered, found Franco, took off my jacket - then Franco said - Karen, vieni con me. Come with me...
I followed Pepe up the stairs to the third floor - to Authentica- his latest project.
Authentica- authentic.
A state of the art stereo system playing soft jazz greeted us as Franco opened the door to a small room. A simple room featuring a bookshelf full of pizza books. A new generation pizza oven in the corner embraced by a simple counter and stools for a maximum of 8 guests.
Guests, participants, pizza enthusiasts who could reserve a special front row pizza experience with Franco Pepe himself. A chance to participate in an intimate pizza making/eating experience in a cozy environment.
Photographs or words cannot convey the intimacy, coziness and emotions that I felt listening to my friend Franco as he took another step on his journey.
Chefs Lorenzo Cuomo, Oliver Glowig, Ludovico De Vivo, Domenico Iavarone, Valentino Palmisano and Daniele Corona
The idea of going out on Halloween usually
doesn’t excite me much. I mean, in the
States, it can get pretty crazy, you know, with all the costumes and tricker
treaters and such. However, an invitation
from a friend - Domenico Iavarone, Jose Restaurant(who happens to be one of the top chefs in the Campania region)
was impossible to refuse.
Chef Domenico Iavarone
Karen, the 31st of
October – a dinner to wrap up a series of dinners at Oliver’s (Oliver
Glowig). I won’t take no for an answer. - Iavarone wrote me a month or so before the cena.
And he wouldn’t have to. A dinner that was not the usual four hands
dinner starring 2 top chefs – but a twelve hands dinner starring 6!!! Wow!!
So after a looong day at work, I
hopped in my car and headed to Jose Restaurant for dinner. A dinner to
celebrate l’amicizia…friendship. One
that budded blossomed and thrived nearly 10 years ago in the kitchen of Capri
Palace – 2 Michelin stars – under the lead of Chef OliverGlowig. Over the years, Glowig’s brigade
has gone their separate ways, but that beautiful bond remained.
I
pulled up in the parking lot around 830 pm, and headed straight to the kitchen
where I decided, thanks to Iavarone, to camp out in the corner.
That is
when my diary began…
835 pm: Purse down. A glass of sparkling wine and a
quick look around the kitchen. Iavarone?
Oh, there he is! A hug and a chance to meet his friends. I must say, I was a
little nervous.
Karen,
ti presento Ludovico…
Ciao,
chef..
This is
Valentino…
Buona
sera…
Lorenzo...
Chef Lorenzo Cuomo
Hi!
And
Glowig, I wondered? Il maestro?
Ecco, there he is…
Ciao Oliver… (OMG)…
Chef Oliver Glowig and Daniele Corona
Karen…do
you know Daniele?
No,
ciao chef, piacere… nice to meet you.
840 pm…
Iavarone knows me
well….he knew that after a long drive I would be hungry – very hungry, so he
and the chefs made sure I had a chance to try the appetizers that were making
their way out to the dining room…
Mini
bun with smoked ham, Piennolo cherry tomato marmalade and olive powder.
Smoked saffron rice waffle with goat cheese and ham.
Ok, ok…with a little food in my
stomach, I was ready to check out the scene. You know a little look up close
and personal as to the who and what was going on.
9:03 pm…A
chance to chat with Chef Ludovico De Vivo.
I noticed right away that his dialect was not a familiar one for
me.
Allora, you’re not from the Naples
area, I said while munching on a breadstick.
The
chef told me that he was originally from the south, but
had was raised around the world. His
Neapolitan accent comes out when he gets angry.
At the point, the chef switched to
English (grazie!!!) as we spoke about where he
works - Capofaro
Malvasia&Resort – Sicily, Sicilian wines, and his appetizer…
Chef Ludovico De Vivo
a Bundle of caper leaves, fermented fennel and smoked mackerel.
An
opportunity to hang out in the kitchen is also an opportunity to watch and
respect not only the preparation, but also the plating of each dish.
An evening
such as this one, with chefs of this caliber (Michelin stars!!!) Egos were not included. Everyone helped
everyone.
10:04 pm
Chef Valentino Palmisano at the pass.
His
veal tongue with spumed mousse, 'nduja sauce and San Pellegrino black garlic
purée was an omg amazing appetizer.
Okay- I built up a little courage…it’s not always easy for me to
approach a chef for the first time and discuss his dish, I’ve a compliment or
two without sounding like a total groupie!!!
The
conversation went a little like this –
Karen,
allora? What did you think?
Chef,
one of the most amazing tongues that I ever had!..Ooops that did not sound right.
No
problem, an evening among friends, old and new.
We laughed it off and then headed over to the other side of the kitchen- selfie time!!
10:27
pm
There Iavarone was whipping up the first course of the night.
At the
pass during plating, for sure!!! Nevertheless,
in the kitchen has its advantages…patience pays off. A dish plated up especially for me!
Risotto with burnt onion, anchovies, almonds and yogurt. All hands on deck!!!
11:27 pm
Second course prepared by the shy (?) yet simpatico young chef with a crooked
smile and a fantastic touch. Daniele
Corona works in Rome, but is from Pianura, a town net to my son’s high
school. We chatted a bit as he plated up
his twist on a Roman classic – broccoli and arzilla/broccoli and skate fish.
Almost
impossible to eat without a piece of bread to soak up the spectacular sauce!!!
In my little corner of course!
Heading
towards midnight – and anyone who knows me knows that that is when the shoe
drops, so to speak!
But it
was time for Glowig’s dish – his predessert.
Dessert? No, but a grande sopresa
– his classic elliche pasta, cacciocavallo, sea urchin and pepper dish!
Surprise!
Midnight
– time to take a break..or so I thought.
Chef
Lorenzo Cuomo was plating up his dish and my new friend invited me over for a
look – and taste of course!!
Piña
Colada with persimmon – the question came spontaneously- chef, are you saving’
that dessert for me?
In
between tastes, snapshots, laughter, pieces of bread, glasses of wine, more
pieces of bread etc etc etc, I took a look around.
There I
had the answer to a question that many would as me later.
Karen,
what was it like to be in the kitchen with chefs of that magnitude??? Similar
to a Hell’s Kitchen???
Ma
noooo! Chefs who are
professional, who are friends, and appreciate and
respect each other... It was a blast!!!
12:30 am….
Time for me to say goodnight.
Goodnight, but not goodbye.
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