Sustanza, Chef Marco Ambrosino, Naples, Italy

 

Chef Marco Ambrosino

For me, waiting to try a new restaurant can be exciting.  As it was in the case of  Sustanza Restaurant which opened up about a couple of months ago. The restaurant is part of an ambitious project to bring a life back to Galleria Principe located across the street from the very popular Archaeological Museum in downtown Naples. A galleria rich in Neapolitan history  dating back to the late 1800s housing among many things, what is known as a caffè letterario- a literary caffè. 

You may remember that I wrote about Scotto Jonno – part 1 of the project on my blog here.  That blog post ended by me making a promise to myself.  A promise that I would return when the restaurant opened on the second floor. 

I chose the evening of the 22^nd of June and was greeted by Chef Marco Ambrosino and the dining room staff as I exited the elevator.   I was given a quick tour of the restaurant which included two small dining rooms and an area to relax in- all beautifully decorated with Neapolitan furniture and antiques, many chosen by the chef himself.

I chose the blue room, corner table, next to the window.  It was there that I looked over the menu filled with illustrations by Ambrosino accompany his menu for the summer season.

I decided to go for the 8-course tasting menu, which would be a perfect opportunity for me to (begin) learn about the chef’s cuisine.  Wines?  I left myself in the hands of the young and talented sommelier.

Each dish, each glass of wine was brought to my table along with an opportunity to learn not only about what was on the plate, but stories behind each one.  A chance to begin to understand the inspiration behind it, as well as be introduced to new flavor combinations.

 

Here are just a few of the dishes that I tried that I still smile about-

The first appetizer -tomato, almond, black truffle, nutmeg and argan oil.  I remember that Ambrosino brought this to my table and after a quick chat, I was ready to try.  I remember the aromas of truffle that were released from the tomato as a cut it open.  Yes, I did close my eyes for a moment.

The bread basket.  Ambrosino served his bread with the most amazing butter  I have ever eaten.  The chef explained to me later. The butter we serve is composed of two butters One obtained from a fermented cream and the other is a Smen. A butter of Berber origin. First it is clarified then a decoction of herbs is added and fermented for at least 3 months. Then we combine the two preparations and smoke lightly. - Ambrosino

 

Ambrosino’s menu that evening had two pasta dishes.  His first was trottole pasta cooked in a fish bone broth, pine nuts, fennel, tobacco butter, and a very very thin transparent slice of fish lard.

For the second pasta dish I would have to wait awhile because, as the chef mentioned to me later, he does not like to eat his pasta dishes back to back.  His spaghettino, with oxidized wine, juniper, citrus peel ash, and  balsamic herbs was served just right before dessert. 

 

Other dishes that I have fond memories of is Ambrosino’s white fish glazed with fennel and Mediterranean curry, green chillies, rose sauce and myrtle.

His quite complex second course dish -lamb and sheep:

I remember the chef coming to the table with this dish as well as stories about how during the week- we do not have as much time to cook, sheep was the chosen meat while lamb was cooked on the weekends or holidays.  I really enjoyed his shish kebob of sheep and lamb cuttings, escarole kimchi and friarielli greens.

I don’t think I will ever forget the desserts, in particular the pre dessert – a cool sorbet prepared with fig leaves, salt and bay leaf oil.

 Also a favorite was the petit fours at the end in particular a peach and tobacco flavored gummy candy as well as a tonic named after chef Ambrosino. (All prepared by a young and talented pastry chef named Federico Andreini)

Would you like a closer look at all of the dishes?

 

I’m so glad I kept that promise to myself!

 

Ristorante Local- Chef Salvatore Sodano, Venice, Italy

Chef Salvatore Sodano

Last week I was in Venice. I decided to treat myself to a foodie vacation and my first stop was the Michelin starred restaurant, Ristorante Local. Was it a coincidence that the chef is a close friend, Salvatore Sodano?

Maybe.

I chose Sodano's 9 dish tasting menu which was a journey that blended his Campania roots, techniques that he has learned throughout his career, and flavors and customs of Venetian cuisine.

That means that his menu began with a series of 'cicchetti' which are little bites to open up your stomach. I also tried his appetizer of tuna, cucumber and nervetti. Nervetti are the cartilaginous parts found in calves' legs. In Venice you may find them served with onions in a salad and in Campania in a favorite street food called 'o per e 'o muss.

Chef Sodano is a staunch protector of the environment and believes deeply in sustainability. That is why it was important to include a blue crab appetizer on his menu. This particular crab which originated in the American Atlantic has, well, let's say-invaded the Adriatic. How? By feeding on local fish and crabs and damaging fishermen's nets as well as seaweed beds.

His menu also included one of my favorite dishes of 2023- a spicy pasta dish called pellusiello, red pepper, black lemon. Another first course - risone, mantis shrimp, xo and chicory. Sodano used schie which is a small grey shrimp to make his xo sauce, taking advantage of a surplus of this particular species which can be found at the bottom of the nearby lagoon.

Sodano's tasting menu continued with two second course dishes- one featuring the catch of the day using dry aged fish and the other was lamb )aged in beeswax), onion, tofu and medlars. It was interesting to learn that not only was the lamb aged in beeswax, but cooked in it as well.

The meal wound down with Sodano's dessert which featured venere rice, oxidized banana and amaro.

I enjoyed my time at Ristorante Local. I enjoyed the casual atmosphere. I enjoyed the wines chosen for me by sommelier Manuel Trevisan. I enjoyed the little cards that accompanied me throughout the meal with little tidbits of info about each course.

And...I really enjoyed the polaroid picture of Chef Sodano and I given to me at the end of the evening.

Fantasticaaa!