Sustanza, Chef Marco Ambrosino, Naples, Italy

 

Chef Marco Ambrosino

For me, waiting to try a new restaurant can be exciting.  As it was in the case of  Sustanza Restaurant which opened up about a couple of months ago. The restaurant is part of an ambitious project to bring a life back to Galleria Principe located across the street from the very popular Archaeological Museum in downtown Naples. A galleria rich in Neapolitan history  dating back to the late 1800s housing among many things, what is known as a caffè letterario- a literary caffè. 

You may remember that I wrote about Scotto Jonno – part 1 of the project on my blog here.  That blog post ended by me making a promise to myself.  A promise that I would return when the restaurant opened on the second floor. 

I chose the evening of the 22^nd of June and was greeted by Chef Marco Ambrosino and the dining room staff as I exited the elevator.   I was given a quick tour of the restaurant which included two small dining rooms and an area to relax in- all beautifully decorated with Neapolitan furniture and antiques, many chosen by the chef himself.

I chose the blue room, corner table, next to the window.  It was there that I looked over the menu filled with illustrations by Ambrosino accompany his menu for the summer season.

I decided to go for the 8-course tasting menu, which would be a perfect opportunity for me to (begin) learn about the chef’s cuisine.  Wines?  I left myself in the hands of the young and talented sommelier.

Each dish, each glass of wine was brought to my table along with an opportunity to learn not only about what was on the plate, but stories behind each one.  A chance to begin to understand the inspiration behind it, as well as be introduced to new flavor combinations.

 

Here are just a few of the dishes that I tried that I still smile about-

The first appetizer -tomato, almond, black truffle, nutmeg and argan oil.  I remember that Ambrosino brought this to my table and after a quick chat, I was ready to try.  I remember the aromas of truffle that were released from the tomato as a cut it open.  Yes, I did close my eyes for a moment.

The bread basket.  Ambrosino served his bread with the most amazing butter  I have ever eaten.  The chef explained to me later. The butter we serve is composed of two butters One obtained from a fermented cream and the other is a Smen. A butter of Berber origin. First it is clarified then a decoction of herbs is added and fermented for at least 3 months. Then we combine the two preparations and smoke lightly. - Ambrosino

 

Ambrosino’s menu that evening had two pasta dishes.  His first was trottole pasta cooked in a fish bone broth, pine nuts, fennel, tobacco butter, and a very very thin transparent slice of fish lard.

For the second pasta dish I would have to wait awhile because, as the chef mentioned to me later, he does not like to eat his pasta dishes back to back.  His spaghettino, with oxidized wine, juniper, citrus peel ash, and  balsamic herbs was served just right before dessert. 

 

Other dishes that I have fond memories of is Ambrosino’s white fish glazed with fennel and Mediterranean curry, green chillies, rose sauce and myrtle.

His quite complex second course dish -lamb and sheep:

I remember the chef coming to the table with this dish as well as stories about how during the week- we do not have as much time to cook, sheep was the chosen meat while lamb was cooked on the weekends or holidays.  I really enjoyed his shish kebob of sheep and lamb cuttings, escarole kimchi and friarielli greens.

I don’t think I will ever forget the desserts, in particular the pre dessert – a cool sorbet prepared with fig leaves, salt and bay leaf oil.

 Also a favorite was the petit fours at the end in particular a peach and tobacco flavored gummy candy as well as a tonic named after chef Ambrosino. (All prepared by a young and talented pastry chef named Federico Andreini)

Would you like a closer look at all of the dishes?

 

I’m so glad I kept that promise to myself!