Andiamo to Fontanelle: Naples’ Most Mysterious Site Reopens This April

 

After nearly six years of restoration, the tuff-stone heart of Naples is beating again. On April 18th, the Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Fontanelle Cemetery) officially reopens its gates. While I haven't visited yet, I’ve long been fascinated by its haunting history and the unique folklore that makes it the soul of the city.

A City of Tuff and Bone

Located in the Rione Sanità district, this massive ossuary was carved into a Roman-era quarry. It became a burial site during the plague of 1656 and the cholera outbreaks of the 1830s. Eventually, it became the final home for the pezzentelli—the "pauper souls" of Naples.

The Cult of the "Anime Pezzentelle"

The Fontanelle is famous for the "cult of the skulls." In the 19th century, Neapolitans began "adopting" anonymous skulls (capuzzelle), cleaning them and placing them in wooden boxes. Devotees offered prayers and flowers in exchange for protection or guidance. Today, this tradition remains a powerful symbol of the Neapolitan relationship between the living and the dead.

Getting There: Metro & Transport

The cemetery is tucked away in the Sanità valley, but easily reachable via Metro:

• Materdei Station (Line 1): The best stop. It’s a 10–15 minute walk, mostly downhill.

• Museo (Line 1) / Cavour (Line 2): A 20-minute walk through the local markets.

How to Visit & Reserve Tickets

Access is now structured and booking is mandatory.

• Official Website: cimiterodellefontanelle.it

• Hours: Daily (except Wednesday), 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM.

• Tours: Choose between the official audio guide app or a guided tour with an expert.

• Languages: Available in both Italian and English.

A Personal Note

I’m visiting the Fontanelle later this month to see the restorations firsthand. There’s something moving about the silence of these caves—a place where the veil between worlds feels incredibly thin.

Stay tuned! I’ll post a detailed follow-up with photos and stories after my trip. If you’re in Naples this spring, don’t miss this hauntingly beautiful site.

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