andiamotrips - campania, italy with karen phillips

Spring has arrived and brought Enolaboratorio® with it. Enolaboratorio® is a series of wine tastings designed by Fabio Cimmino, Mauro Erro and Tommaso Luongo of the Association of Italian Sommeliers, Naples. Enolaboratorio®  has enjoyed great success this past year and is picking back up its season. A series that discusses the real stories behind the men and women who have made an impact in the wine world. A series dedicated to the Luoghi Comuni , Familair Places. A series that will try to deepen our understanding and appreciation of wine growing areas, Italian and non. This journey will begin on the 31st of March with our glasses of wine accompanied by the culinary delights of Adele Chiagano . Here is the schedule: Wednesday, March 31    Double Mini/Vertical Wine Tasting Dolcetto di Ovada of Dott. Giuseppe Ratto Vignaiolo in Roccagrimalda… Azienda Agricola Giuseppe Ratto Cost for the evening € 35 – time 2030 hrs Le Olive 1987 / Le Olive 1993 /Gli Scarsi 1997/ Le Oli

I've attended quite a few wine tastings and events recently, but I've decided to take a break.  Well, at least for a couple of weeks.  I'm 'saving' myself for Vinitaly. Imagine....5 days in one of Italy's most enchanting cities.  A city known for its art, architecture, Romeo and Juliet, and every April... Vinitaly .  Vinitaly is a HUGE wine fair that will be held in Verona 8-12 April.  Their web site ( here ) says that there are over 4,200 reasons to visit.  Meaning 4,200 exhibitors will be on hand to show you what they've got.  HUGE. I've decide to go this year and have been bombarded with advice by Vinitaly Veterans .  Advice like plan out your day, organize your tastings, make a list of who you want to see, do not pass go, do not collect $200, etc ...You get the picture. So, over the next week I will be doing just that. Checking out the map , consulting the list of exhibitors by region ( here ), narrowing down which wine tastings I would li

Monday, March 22nd, I was a little apprehensive about my third lesson to begin.  The topic for the evening was wine production.  A topic, I feared, if not presented just right, I would get lost in the vocabulary, formulas, scientific discussions.  So, I was happy to see that our guest lecturer for the evening was Francesco Martusciello, noted enologist and Grotte del Sole CEO.  If there was ever a person who would be able to grab my attention on this subject, I was confident that he would be the one...and I was correct. Una chiacchierata, a discussion, as Francesco called it, on wine production beginning with the vendemmia , harvest.  Wine making, good wine making , requires a lot of human intervention.The big question here was when do you harvest ?  An answer might be, when the grape is mature.  Well, yes, but it also depends on what your intent is.  When a grape matures, the level of sugar increases while the acidity decreases.  So, if you want a spumanti with high acidity and l

PARTY IN THE CELLAR Discover Feudi's Newest Selections Saturday, March 27, 2010, 22:00 h An exceptional setting  for the festival of the year. News, sounds and ideas in Italy's longest cellar. 2200: LIVE MUSIC - Lucio D'Amato, Piano - Maximum Ariano, Sax 2400: DJ SET - DJ Angelo Mazzeo Admission: € 20 Feudi di San Gregorio - Loc Cerza Grossa, Sorbo Serpico (AV) - T.0825 986683 - prenota@feudi.it

There was something different in the air last Thursday at Città del Gusto . I was there for another Wine Lab , my third. A quick look around, I noticed the usual key elements. Hosts, journalist Paolo De Cristofaro and Raffaele Del Franco …CHECK. Pizza King Michele Leo ...CHECK. Chefs Antonio Russo and Giovanni Pastore with their amazing menus…CHECK. Ais Napoli Sommeliers , this time Guisy Romano and Pino Savoia ….CHECK. Panel of experts to include enologists Fortunato Sebastiano and Vincenzo Mercurio ….CHECK. Cool booklet full of facts, figures, etc so I could follow along during the wine tasting…CHECK. Twelve wines to try…CHECK…HEY!!! Here we go, something different about the wines. I knew they would be Taurasis….a wine made from my favorite grape, aglianico, and named after my home away from home away from home. I knew there would be 12 different wineries- Caggiano , Mastroberardin o, Bocella, Colli di Lapio , Contrade di Taurasi , Di Prisco , I Favati , Il C

“Il vino si fa in vigna’ Wine is made in the vineyards. This is how Ais Napoli President, Tommaso Luongo opened our second Level 1 lesson last Monday, March 15th. Then he introduced us to the guest lecturer of the evening; Dotteressa Maria Sarnataro . Dr. Sarnataro is one of the best-President of Ais Cilento-Valle di Diano and National Advisor to ONAF . She began the evening with a brief historical background of how wine entered into our society…as far back as the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians all the way up to the 1860s . This is about when phylloxera (a parasite from the aphid family from America) destroyed a large number of vineyards causing many to change their rootstock to the ‘ piede americano’ , a root that is resistant to this parasite. We were here to learn about the vineyards and that we did. Dottoressa Sarnataro went into great detail on topics such as the various grafting techniques, production of the barbatelle (rooted cutting), the lifecycle of the vineyard, m

Salvatore Vicidomini and sons Over the past few years, whenever there was a party or get together at my house, there were always two people I could call on for the wines: Francesco and Luca Vicidomini   of Tenuta Matilde Zasso .  Their wines have become a staple in my household cantina and one of my favorite Campi Flegrei wineries. Their reds include  aglianico DOC, piedirosso Doc, or Excelso 14   (an aglianico DOC).  This last wine is a particular aglianico Sannio DOC, aged 6 months in stainless steel, then another 6 in the bottle, 14% alcohol content.  Available in limited edition only and has become a staple at my home.  Tenuta Matilde Zasso has the classic Campi Flegrei inventory of whites as well ranging from  falangina DOC, coda del volpe DOC and two  DOCGs; Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino (!).    A few years ago, I began bringing family and friends by the winery and they are always impressed with the size of the place as well as their cozy and comfortable wine tast

I met Stefano Pagliuca , owner of Antica Paneteria dei Buoni Sapori   last September at Ciao Vino .  Instantly I fell in love with his outgoing personality, his desire to keep age old traditions alive, and of course... his pizza.  Stefano invited me to visit the bakery located in Melito whenever I had the chance.  Last Saturday I took him up on it. Pulling up with Stefano in front of his bakery (located a few blocks from his shop/enoteca) I could already smell the fresh aroma of slow cooked bread from the street.  We entered and I was immediately  impressed by not only the size, but the order and cleanliness of the opertaion.  Stefano walked me through the process of producing his  pane a canestrella .  This bread is particular for several reasons.  The dough is made with lievito madre (literally, 'mother yeast) That means that each day  a portion of the dough made during the day is set aside and added to the new dough for the next day.  This produces a dough that is second to n

As I parked my car in front of Tenuta San Francesco Tuesday, I could hear music, laughter...a celebration.  The weather was cloudy, windy, and rainy.  I pulled aside the plastic tarp that served as the door and stepped inside.  Ahh! "This is why I love Italy,"  I thought to myself.  I entered alone and was instantly greeted by Eva Bove , the owner.  She along with relatives and friends were over by the  camino, fireplace,  preparing a meal for the 40 plus people who were to arrive that day.  The smile on her face made me happy that I braved the brutto tempo that hit the Campania region that morning. This was a party and party we did, beginning with a great meal.  I sat down and was instantly given a plate of pancetta, salami, ricotta, and mozzarella by Elena.  She and her husband Rino (Ristorante Il Pirata, Praiano) adopted me for the day. So my plate was never empty; minestra maritata, pasta e fagioli, polenta with beans, frittata di pasta, salsiccia e friarielle . T

LA FIGURA DEL SOMMELIER - translated literally means 'The figure of the Sommelier'.That was the topic of Monday night's lesson.  I arrived a little late (thanks to Naples traffic and my refusal to use a GPS), but I was ready when Antonio Del Franco (President of Ais, Campania region) arrived.  Who better to welcome our class of 45 or so students into the world of Ais.  On hand as well were Tommaso Luongo (President Ais, Napoli) and Franco De Luca (Secretary, Ais Napoli).  I happily received the 'Ais briefcase'.  Inside were three glasses which we would need for our weekly wine tastings.  Pen, notebook, and  From Vine to Wine, an italian/english glossary (thanks Manuela). I was ready to go. I was attentive to what  Mr. Del Franco had to say and I'd like to share with you a few points that hit home. Ais Campania President Antonio Del Franco He listed the requirements that a sommelier must have; these include class and style, an open mind, and humility. 

Hanging out with friends, listening to great music, and trying different wines was what Fabrizio Erbaggio had in mind when he helped put together last Sunday night's concert with Greg Osby at Bacoli Art Gallery .  It was a winning formula.  It was my first time at BAG so as I walked up to the 'art gallery' I was hit by the modern architecture and it how it stood out from the other buildings in the center of Bacoli's centro storico .  Inside, a finger food buffet was placed on the bar in the hallway that leads to the first floor.  Here is where we hung out and listened to Greg Osby who played on the stage below. Stefano Pagliuca was there, and he brought his pizza, of course .  Mozzarella, tomatoes, and other buffet items were in the corner. The fun part was when we tried wines.  Fabrizio had a brilliant idea.  BYOB... bring your own bottle .  In my group, there was a restaurant owner, 2 chefs, and a handful of sommeliers.  What was on hand?  Carracci from Villa

How can I say no to this one? Gambero Rosso's Paolo De Cristofaro will once again be our guide as Città del Gusto focuses on Taurasi. I am sure it will be a special evening in the "G-Zone", as have been previous wine tastings ( here , here , and here ).  Paolo's scope is to analyze and  X-ray what is interesting  and what is going on in certain areas, subareas, grapes, and production styles. The theme of the evening is  " Irpinia, tests of  the Grande Cru " and is an event focused entirely on one of the oldest and most prestigious names of the  south- Taurasi .  Taurasi was the only DOCG in all of Central and Southern Italy until 1993. Taurasi is one of the symbols of Irpinia and Campania, and an  expression of the longevity of Aglianico. Mastroberardino has been  the   name for years when discussing this wine but in recent years new players have jumped into the scene, each  bringing out more and more different characteristics of the various sub-areas, o

Ok...its official, a couple of days and I will begin the Sommelier Course, 1st Level with The Association of Italian Sommeliers in Naples,  or Ais. It became real to me when I looked their web site this afternoon and saw this announcement with the list of names of those who would be attending....Yep, mine's there.  " Avviso ai corsisti del Corso Sommelier di Primo Livello Ais Napoli dell’8 Marzo: la lista degli ammessi Pubblichiamo lista degli ammessi al Corso Ais di Sommelier Primo Livello in partenza l’8 Marzo all’hotel Ramada.Per info tel 320.8153647 ASSANTE DARIO/BALZAMO GIOVANNI/CAIAZZO GENNARO/CARPUTO FILOMENA/CAUTERO SALVATORE/COPPOLA MARINO/CORSA MARIA ROSARIA/COSTAGLIOLA MAURIZIO/D’EUSTACCHIO PAOLA/DE LUCA GIOACCHINO DOMENICO/DE NAPOLI DANIELE/DE PASCALE NICOLA/DE VINCENTIIS MASSIMO/DONNARUMMA MARIA/FALCO JUNIOR/FARACO VINCENZA/FICO PIETRO/FUSCO N./GAGLIARDI DOMENICO/GENOVESE CATERINA/GIGLIO AMEDEO/GIUSTINIANI GABRIELLA/GRANDE MICHELE/GUERRIERO PI

It was a windy night in Naples on Thursday, March 4th.  Inside, however, I was enjoying the calore of Puglia. The latest edition of Citta del Gusto's Wine Lab brought us to Puglia with the help of Paolo De Cristofaro and Paolo Zaccaria of Gambero Rosso .  The star of the evening...a grape that feels at home in the heat and soil of Puglia -negroamaro. I didn't have much backgrond knowledge on negroamaro or Puglia for that matter, but Paolo De Cristofaro solved that problem.  While our wine was being served (12...yes 12) Paolo shared with us his vast knowledge of three principle areas that he strongly believes are crucial to understand and appreciate prior to our wine tasting: Territory and climate Art and history Music and folklore I followed along closely underlining and highlighting points he brought up about the luce, calore, vento which is particular to Salento. How cities such as Lecce are rich in baroque art and architecture. In the background, a film accomp

Place : Flumeri , a little town in Avellino known for its enormous Baronia pasta factory.  Time : Last Sunday, all day.  Event:   The 3rd annual Battle of Soffito di Maile organizzed by Condotta Slow Food Irpinia Colline dell'Ufita e Taurasi / Comune di Flumeri Soffritto is a pork dish that is sauteed in oil, with peppers, onions or other ingredients depending on the local recipe and tradition.  (In Naples, for example, tomato sauce is added). The 'battle' was between 12 communities.  Each sharing their cooking, wine and culture on a sunny Campania afternoon.  Fun..but serious.  Each community had to present their dishes to the judges.  Bragging rights were up for this one.  Great food, great wine, great fun!

We've been invited to a party!  The host?  Gaetano Bove of Tenuta San Francesco . The occasion? I VINI DI TENUTA SAN FRANCESCO e I SAPORI PERDUTI DELLA COSTA D'AMALFI- The lost flavors of the Amalfi Coast The party begins at 1230 on the 9th of March at cantine Tenuta San Francesco, frazione Corsano di Tramonti. We'll have an authentic homecooked meal with dishes from the region and get an exclusive opportunity to try the new wines that will be presented at Vinitaly 2010 in April. For more info : Gaetano Bove 335 6670854 or  http://www.vinitenutasanfrancesco.it/ Need directions?... here I wrote an earlier blog which mentioned Gaetano and his wines.  See it here .

Sunday night is going to be special.  Bacoli Art Gallery will host the Greg Osby Quintet for an evening of mind- blowing jazz.  Here's what his web site says about this groundbreaking musician. Saxophonist, composer, producer and educator Greg Osby has made an indelible mark on contemporary jazz as a leader of his own ensembles and as a guest artist with other acclaimed jazz groups for the past 20 years. Highly regarded for his insightful and innovative approach to composition and performance, Osby is a shining beacon among the current generation of jazz musicians. He has earned numerous awards and critical acclaim for his recorded works and passionate live performances. Born and reared in St. Louis, Greg Osby began his professional music career in 1975, after three years of private studies on clarinet, flute and alto saxophone. Coming from a vibrant and musical city, Osby showed an early interest in the performing arts and spent his years in secondary school with a heavy i

There are a couple of things that you must do while in Taurasi.  One is have lunch at Agriturismo Taurasi (see an earlier blog ).  The other is to stop by Oscar's Vino e Caffe for a cornetto and cappuccino. Everyone in Taurasi  knows Oscar Santosuosso, young, friendly professional sommelier.  Everyone in Taurasi knows Vino e Caffè .  I stumbled on it a few years ago when I brought a group to visit Cantine Caggiano.  It has been a 'must stop here' ever since.  What a place!  If you stop by in the morning, you'll lose youself in  the warm aromas of cornetti, sfogliatelle e bombe.  Order a cappuccino or caffè and you can stand, sit on a stool by the bar, or relax at one of the tables inside or out.  Mid morning, more sweets such as caprese or babà.  Later throughout the day, order an apperitivo choosing from Oscar's wide selection of wines or other apperitivo drinks. Pizzette and other snacks are available as the day progresses. Often wine tastings and other specia

When I decided to attend a dinner at Cantine Caggiano, I knew I would need a place to stay overnight.  I wanted a place in the centro storico, somehwere comfortable, clean, carino .  A friend suggested that I get in touch with Alessandro Barletta .  He is the owner of Al Campanaro , a bed and breakfast just 30 meters from the castle.  I made my reservation and on Saturday afternoon, checked into my room. It was exactly what I wanted- no, more .  This b&b is perfect for someone who wants to feel part of the town.  My room was on the secondo piano and my balcony had a perfect view of the castello and bell tower. In the small lobby, there is plenty of reading material on the food and wines of Irpinia.  That makes sense because Alessandro, besides being the owner, is a sommelier, delegato and promoter of Go WIne Taurasi DOCG , as well as deeply involved in Slow Food and Pro Loco Taurasi . Downstairs, below the lobby, there is an amazing cantina with an excellent selection of win