andiamotrips - campania, italy with karen phillips

Thursday May 27. Around 6:30 pm. Paolo Barrale leisurely walks into Feudi di San Gregorio’s waiting room. I, along with my friend, Kate, have an informal appointment with the chef. Una chiacchierata , a little bit of conversation with him, about him, Marennà , (Feudi’s Michelin rated restaurant), and food in general. I had been looking forward to this appointment for some time. Besides being a big fan of Feudi di San Gregorio, I have also  been following Paolo’s career. Paolo Barrale, 36years old, Sicilian and Ligurian, has been ‘in the biz’ since he was about 14 years old. Helping out with his family’s pasta making business, then la scuola alberghiera (cooking/hotel school), various trattorias, hotels and resorts. Eventually hooking up with the acclaimed Chef Heinz Beck of Pergola, l’Altro Masta i in Rome, and la Torre del Saraceno in Vico Equense. The last five years, he has called Marennà home. Paolo showed us around his ‘home’ instantly making us feel welcome. From the terrac

Another chance to walk around the'Egg Castle' and try the best wines from Campania. Saturday the 29th of May from 1200-2000. Great music from the Baroque period as well. Andi it's free! NOT to miss...

Every now and then I get the chance to see my Campania through the eyes of American tourists. Americans on vacation from the ‘States’...looking for the best. The best food, the best wine, the culture. I had an occasion such as this recently when Brian Arnoff, a 23 year old chef from Boston’s Sportello came to visit Terre Del Principe . Brian, along with family and friends wanted to absorb Campania. They wanted to spend a day away from the tourist traps, the noise of the city. The Arnoff party wanted something different. So, I watched them soak up Campania…the countryside. I watched how they checked out Campania, the vineyards. I observed how they were awed by seeing a 20 year old Casavecchia grape vine with young bunches basking in the late morning sun. How Manuela Piancastelli explained that this grape, as well as the Pallagrello Bianco and Nero grapevines nearby, were rediscovered after years of hard work and dedication by Peppe Mancini. I observed closely as they sat down to a

Hey...Capua is not that far away... And from May 21st  to the 30th, The Luogo della Lingua Festival, an event promoted by Architempo involving the city of Capua, will take place.  An event held annually where literature is  surrounded by so many important tools: cinema, theater, visual art and the media, music in all its forms, architecture and sculpture. This year the festival reaches its sixth year, enriched by the first edition of "Falerno First Novel Award. The prize, dedicated to novice writers, combining wine and literature. Ghirelli Antonio, Mario Venuti, Marcio Rangel, Amanda Sandrelli, Blas Roca Rey, Francesca Melandri, Margaret of Rausa, Paoletta Pelagalli from RTL, Peppe Servillo, Fausto Mesolella are just some of the names who will take turns on  stage. All the events are free. For more info, check out the following web sites http://www.illuogodellalinguafestival.com/ http://www.premiofalerno.it/

It is not every day that one gets an opportunity like the one I had yesterday. The privilege to sit in on one of the most exclusive wine tastings at Vitigno Italia 2010. A horizontal wine tasting of Mastroberardino’s Taurasi. An opportunity to try, side by side, my Aglianico in version Taurasi by one of the biggest names in Campania. The opportunity to listen to moderators such as Dario Pennino and Massimo Di Renzo from Mastroberardino , journalist Luciano Pignataro , and President Ais Campania Antonio Del Franco . No front row for me this time…I wanted to be in the second row, to the left where I could experience the wine tasting from all sides. Appreciate the opportunity to sit among professional sommeliers, journalist, and restaurateurs. A chance to observe, absorb, reflect, listen, learn. And that I did. I watched how Gambero Rosso’s Paolo De Cristofaro took in the aromas of each glass, slowly, then would set the glass down and think about the wines. Fabrizio Erbaggio, Cia

Shiro-White Aka-Red Two new wines from Villa Matilde made exclusively for Kukai and presented by Mariaida Avallone (owner of Villa Matilde, President Donne del Vino, Campania).  Kukai, a Japanese restaurant located in downtown Naples.  THE place for all things Sushi run by Massimiliano and Monica Neri . Together at Vitigno Italia for a standing room only wine tasting led by Michela Guadagno (AIS Campania TV, Professional Sommelier). Shiro-a Falanghina that was described as sweet to the nose.  Smooth, warm, flavorful, with a particular lunghezza.  Aka- an excellent red made with Aglianico.  This was also smooth and well balanced.  The tannins were not heavy, so it was perfect side by side with the beautifully presented sushi. In the end, I was sold.  Not only on the wines, which I expected to be excellent.  But I was impressed by the whole experience.  The sushi, the presentation, the appreciation from the other participants in the wine tasting.  (Neapolitans are a tough cro

It began as a thought, a challenge to myself and myself only. After I left Palazzo Reale on Friday afternoon, I decided to stroll through my old stomping grounds (I used to teach ESL on Via Chiaia) and window shop. Maybe even pop into a few stores and wine taste. Naples, in preparation for the big wine fair on the 16th hosted their Wine and the City. Many shops this week, besides displaying their merchandise, had wine tastings with some of the best names in Campania. I stopped by a few. I had a tight schedule. What I loved about Wine and the City is that it was a way to get people out…discover great wines in an atmosphere where they may feel more comfortable. While I was out and about, I met several interesting shop owners who were more than happy to share with me the history of Naples, the beauty of the language, the art and architecture. I wasn’t expecting that. Over a glass of wine, I tried finger foods and was absorbed in the hospitality of a city that I have called home for the pa

HOT—Naples was really hot Friday afternoon. Fitting for a wine tasting entitled ‘I Vini dei Vulcani’ Wines of the Volcanoes. A perfect position, on the terrace of Palazzo Reale in downtown Naples. Here tables with white tablecloths were waiting. Ice buckets full of Falanghina, Lacrimya di Cristo, white and rosè, spumante, Piedirosso and Aglianico all sat patiently waiting to be chosen by their AIS sommelier and poured into my glass. I tried a few wines that I hadn’t tried before…sticking with whites and rosès. Ischia, Campi Flegrei and the Vesuvius area were the stars of the show. They performed well…

Each year, at the end of May, hundreds of wineries throughout Italy open their doors to the public.  Terre del Principe opens their hearts... On the 30th of May, 40 guests/friends/amici will be treated to a day with Manuela Piancastelli and Peppe Mancini to experience their passions:  good food, good wine, good company, and good music. The day will go as follows:  10.30 to 11: Arrival in the winery 11 am: Welcome drink 11:30 am - Classic musical concert for strings: violin Peter Varallo and Vincenzo Di Lorenzo harpsichord. Scheduled sonatas by Vivaldi, Handel, Barbella, Anonymous Neapolitan century. XVIII. In collaboration with the Cultural Association "Ave Gratia Plena" of Limatola 12:30 am - Visit to the cellar with the story of the history of its wines and Casavecchia. Walk in the vineyard "educational" Mascioni of three different farming systems for the same grape. Hours 13.00 - Dejeuner sur l'herbe, lunch in the vineyard...weather permittin

Hop on the bus! On Friday, May 14, a red London double decker bus will be in Vomero on Via Luca Giordano from 1730-2030. Inside--AIS Napoli sommeliers serving THE best red and white Campania wines. Can’t make it Friday? On Saturday and Sunday, you’ll spot in going up and down the lungo mare making brief stops at Rotonda Diaz---Destination- Vitigno Italia which kicks off on Sunday, May 16th. Don’t Miss It!!!

"Notte dei musei". On May 15, from eight o’clock in the evening to two o’clock in the morning, you can visit, for free, 35 monumental sites of the region. From Pompeii’s excavations to the Castello di Baia, from the Certosa di Padula to the Grotte di Pertosa. Of course, among the pièce de résistance, are also Caserta’s Royal Palace, the museums of the Sannio, the ex Carcere borbonico di Avellino, just to name a few. A calendar rich of events that will side the extraordinary opening of museums, monuments and naturalistic sites. Among the most suggestive offers are the Invito a Palazzo Reale di Napoli, the Comicon in Villa Pignatelli, the spectacular walks among Pompeii and Ercolano’s ruins. But also the Archaeological Museum of Naples, the Castello di Baia, the Antiquarium in Boscoreale, the historical and archaeological museum in Nola and that in Piano di Sorrento. The initiative is the fruit of collaboration between Mibac and Campania Region, with the sponsorship o

Wine and culture are the stars of   I Vini dei Vulcani  "The Wines of the Volcanoes", organized by the Consortium Wines Campi Flegrei chaired by Michele Emmer, in collaboration with the National Library in Naples. The event is part of the Wine and the City program and worth looking into.  One, for the wines  and wineries that will be on hand.  Two, for the location.  If you haven't visited the Biblioteca Nazionale (Natinonal Library)  it is worth a look.  Showtime begins at 1100 and continues until  1800 in the  historic rooms  of the National Library of Naples (inside the Royal Palace in Piazza dei Pebliscito), No reservation required, just show up at Palazzo Reale and follow the signs.  On hand will be AIS sommeliers as well as winery representatives to assist you on your journey in discovery the best wines of the Vulcanic Campania region. And the best part, free admission!

Incantevole....enchanting...romantic...divertente.... These are some of the thoughts, phrases, pensieri , that come to mind after spending 12 hours in Praiano. 12 hours on the spiaggia La Praia… 12 hours specifically at Il Pirata . Il Pirata is a restaurant that really knows the meaning of ‘location, location, location.’ This ristorante is located in a beautiful position on the sea, on the rocks, tightly hugging onto a cliff. Inside, candlelight illuminates the bar which is located inside a grotto , a cave. Here is where you relax. Here is where you order your appertivo. (Mine? A glass of Terre Saracene-Costa D’Amalfi-Ettore Sammarco 2009.) It is here where you wait for your friends. It is here where you exchange a word, a laugh with Rino Milano (owner), his sister Vera, and barman Sergio before you head to your table. Your table. Overlooking the sea. Your table, that on this particular evening ‘ci mancava solo la luna’ , only the moon was missing to make this photograph complet

ARCHENO: Vino e divino ai piedi di monte….. A wine event custom made for the history buff and wine lover...so it was perfect for me. A wine event which began around 11 am with a series of speakers who had the task of explaining to us the territory known as Somma Vesuviana. They explained in great detail the history dating back to the Ancient Greeks and Romans. They explained  how the soil was dramatically affected by the various eruptions of ‘our’ volcano, Vesuvius. We learned about three wines; Catalanesca (bianco) and Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio (red and white). We heard from various speakers including acclaimed archaeologist Antonio Del Simone who discussed a project that he has been working for the past 10 years on with the University of Tokyo….basically excavating a site nearby of an ancient Roman villa that had been covered in ashes from the volcanic eruption in 79 AD. He presented slides, showing how wine was a way of life…how Dionysus, known by many names (Bacchus, Hebo

As mentioned in an earlier blog, the week before Vitigno Italia , Naples hosts Wine and the City.  Enoteca Mercadante will have three special events on the 13th, 14th and 15th of May... 13 May:  Cheese Day.  An entire night dedicated to cheese.  For info and reservations tel. 081 680964 - 334 7807377. 081 680964 - 334 7807377. 14 May; An Evening with the Winery; Firriato – Sicilia Firriato - Sicily  Dinner with 4 wines : € 35.00 For info and reservations tel. 081 680964 - 334 7807377. 081 680964 - 334 7807377.     15 May Live Music:  Mac and New Groove A choice of 2 menus  € 25.00 excluding wine and dessert, begins at  21.30  For info and reservations tel. 081 680964 - 334 7807377. 081 680964 - 334 7807377. Enoteca Mercadante Address: Corso Vittorio Emanuele n.643/644 - Zip Code 80121 - Naples Telephone: 081/680964 Stefano Continisio Mobile: 334/7807377 Francesco Continisio Mobile: 393/4110761  Fax: 081/680964 Email: info@enotecam

I had the opportunity to share my Campania –my Taurasi, in the heart of Avellino, on Saturday, May 1st with a curious group of wine lovers. For many it was the first time in Taurasi, so I had to take them to see Vino e Caffè …my number one stop when I arrive. After a quick cappuccino and cornetto with my friend Oscar Santsuosso , we headed out the door. It must have been an interesting sight, 25 English speaking wine lovers heading down the sleepy street –destination- Cantine Caggiano . On our way, I saw Antonio Caggiano relaxing on his patio a few doors down from his winery. I waved, and he joined our little parade to the front door of his winery. I’ve known Antonio Caggiano for nearly 5 years. I’ve translated winery tours with him on dozens of occasions…it is always a blast… divertente to share his passions with his visitors, his guests. After a tour, our group strolled to the centro storico, to the Enoteca Regionale dei vini d’Irpinia for a visit of this medieval palace. Here, we

I walked into SUD Ristorante for the first time on April 29th around 9 pm ish. Almost a year after its grand opening on the 11th of May 2009. SUD a big little restaurant in Quarto…beyond the shopping mall, past the fruit and vegetable stands, towards the montagna spaccata . SUD , run by Chef Marianna Vitale and husband Pino Esposito . SUD - THE place to eat this year. In fact, I had wanted to go SUD for awhile. Friend and SUD’ s wine consultant, Fabrizio Erbaggio has invited me several times, and finally, last Thursday, along with the Winerdì staff…Cinzia Dalmonte and Ezechial Merone I walked through the door. Wow…and what was on the other side of the door!!! Fresh, white and black interior…clean…immaculate… At first I felt a little out of place. It reminded me of my grandmother’s ‘guest dining room’, where we were allowed to look, but not touch. But Marianna and Pino made me feel at home… subito . A before dinner drink outside on the patio…Pino pulls out a bottl