Zi Nannina A' Mare, Ischia Porto Ischia (Na)
Chef Enzo David |
My message to Chef Enzo David, Zi Nannina A' Mare one steamy August evening. 9 pm may seem late - but no! I'm in Italy, it's the summer, and this is how we roll.
My recent visit to Ischia included a summer dinner in the garden of Zi Nannina a Mare, in perfect view of the class, with a bellissimo soundtrack of summer lounge music. And though it was hot and quite humid that evening, it didn't distract me tanto from the chef's summery degustazione/tasting menu that David had in store for me. Let my serata stiva/midsummer night begin.
After a quick look at the wine list, I decided on a white wine from Ischia - Forestera from Cenatiempo...on of my favorite wineries on the island.
Then the meal began. A summer parade of dishes that not only balanced flavors and territory, but were pleasing to the eye as well as the palate.
Chef David's benevenuto...
Spaghetto, garlic, extra virgin olive oil, red chili , and with grue dl cacao from toasted fava bean and raw shrimp.
Then David treated me to two appetizers;
Curly thin zucchini stuffed with burrata, amberjack sashimi, and little bursts of salt, lime, and olive oil courtesy of the chef's mojito cocktail pearls.
Then the chef pushed the envelope with his next appetizer presenting flavors that were a little, well, piu forte/stronger.
Raw and cooked red prawns marinated in ginger with a cream of provola di Agerola cheese, and crispy artichokes on top.
David's fantastic first stars classic Campania flavors suited up for the summe. Pasta alla genovese features beef that has been slow cooked alongside yellow onions. Chef David's version for 2018?
Fresh tortelli pasta filled with mascarpone cheese, spring onions and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. On the side tender slow cooked beef (7/8 hours) and Provolone del Monaco cheese.
Moving back to the sea, David decided to take me to Sorrento. Tonno a Surriento, the name is a twist on a classic Neapolitan songTorna a Surriento/Come back to Sorrento.
Tonno means tuna and that is the star of this dish. But it also features products from the peninsula including roasted daterini tomatoes, lemons, and basil.
Bellissimo! Ready for the desserts!
First stop a predessert with predessert - spicy strawberry - with a syrup which includes schzeuan pepper, lemon, campari.
All of this on a matcha green tea meringue crunvle and homemade vanilla ice cream.
The end...or almost.
The main event- creamy pistachio ice cream, ground cocoa, Cervia salt, and passion fruit.
Before the night was over, before I headed back to my hotel, I had a chance to chat with the chef...about his dishes, his past, present and future. A chance to hang out while he plated up a few little desserts to tie me over...
Desserts, though despite their size, still combined the passion, attention and dedication that I noticed during the entire evening...
Grazie, Chef! A presto!
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