An 'End of Season' Fantasticaa - Il Faro Di Capo D'Orso, Maiori (Sa)
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| Chef Francesco Sodano |
I had been watching the calendar for a few
weeks before I decided. Before I decided whether to make a reservation to head
back to Maiori, to Il Faro Di Capo D'Orso. I had an excellent opportunity to
check out Chef Francesco Sodano's menu at the beginning of the restaurant’s 7-month
season. (Take a look here) Sodano, the determined, enthusiastic 31 year old chef who took over as
executive chef of this Michelin starred restaurant (a star earned back in 2005) after Chef Pierfranco Ferrara left at the beginning of the year. A serious challenge for Sodano,
but if he was in any way worried, he sure did not let it show in his dishes. In
fact, he came out running with a menu that has a style solo Sodano , original, different to what the restaurant's longtime clients were accustomed to. A menu with dishes
such as Ricordo del un viaggio in Peru/ Memories of travels in Peru, Risotto with fermented capers, burnt lemon and codfish roe, milk and cereal, and his delicious and divertente shave the
chef.
Service in the dining room was top level also,
thanks to young maître sommelier Bonny Ferrara whose creativity results in some awesome and unusual pairings to go along with Sodano’s menu.
However, that was then. Since last April, all eyes on Maiori. What
would happen with the season? Sodano knew we would all be watching...and we were. That was motivation but not a distraction to push ahead with the season. Spring
turned to summer, summer turned to fall. Ups and downs like all restaurants go
through. Changes in the kitchen and dining room staff - including the recent departure
of Bonny Ferrara. Luckily, more ups than downs. A 15/20 % increase in business,
positive reviews not only in the press, but also in guides such as l'Espresso
and Gambero Rosso. They also received high recognition for their breadbasket.
A special honor, particularly in Italy where bread is a key staple in the
dining room table.
So, yes. I had been watching the last few
months, but it was not until the last minute that I decided to head back to Maori
and get one last closer look. I chose Friday, 1 November, lunch service. The
first day of the 3 day All Saints holiday weekend. A couple of days before
their last service of 2019. A few days before the release of the 2020 Michelin
guide.
Si, the season was winding down, but that didn't
mean that the momentum at the restaurant was at a standstill. On the contrary. Sodano
and his brigade, which includes his older brother Salvatore, were already
looking ahead towards spring 2020. Therefore, I was in luck! I not only had a chance
to try some dishes that broke out after my visit, but Sodano let me try 2 new
dishes that would be on his menu when the restaurant opens up again in the
spring.
Let’s take a look…
Aperitif
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Taco with beef, fermented cucumbers and mustard.
Wonton with duck thigh confit, sumac, and fermented plum compote.
A lot of work goes into these tiny bites.
Like this one...
A mozzarella handkerchief with its serum.
Fantasticaaa…
Antipasto/appetizers.
Two premieres
Shabu- Shabu. A dish with strong Asian roots,
which the chef presented for me at the table. Amberjack ventresca marinated with salt and teriyaki was the
seafood of choice and I was instructed to dip it into his infusedsmoked tea for a few
seconds, which would slightly poach the fish and help it to lose some of its
fat but not the flavor.
I'm a big fan of Sodano's tartare dishes - next season his menu will include this dish. Dry aged piedmontese tartare, raw patella, fermented shiitake powder, and a salted lemon compote.
First courses
Linguine, carrots and garum. Garum - a fish
sauce that dates back to ancient roman times. Before the anchovy sauce that
nearby Cetara is famous for. Sodano's garum includes anchovies and mackeral. Very flavorful with Sodano’s choice of carrot. Thursday
confession, I have never had carrots with my pasta...this dish was spectacular.
Another pasta dish that he wanted me to try
was his sfoglia pasta with miso, marinated pesce castagna aka brama brama, sconcigli and green peppers.
Second course -
Snapper with an oyster emulsion, sorrel and fermented vegetables in rice bran.
Then the decision for dessert...which one? Just
one? How about three!
Predessert…
Spiced coffee, pumpkin and robiola cheese...
Mai dire mais - translated never say corn.
crunchy caramel popcorn, a salty butter ice cream, sweet corn bread. For me it brought back
memories of home. (!)
Milk and cereal…(!)
Ossidazione di pina colada - coconut ice cream, oxidized pineapple, a sponge made of rum (cool) vanilla and lime. (!)
Petit fours, which included Sodano’s, shave
the chef.
Wine pairings were done by sommelier Michela Barchetti which included Campania wines such as Radegonda Pallagrello Bianco by Aia delle Monache...
Puntacroce Bianco Costa D'Amalfi by Raffaele Palma...
Quartara Fiano by Lunarossa Vini.
Barchetti, who
along with server Antonio Cannoniero demonstrated their expertise in the dining room.
After lunch, before I headed home, I sat down
with Sodano to tape my podcast on line here in Italian and talk about; you know...anything
and everything.
Sodano seemed satisfied. Did I mention before
that he was determined? He is ambitious; it shows in his words, his actions,
and his menu. His dishes are a reflection of the man himself, which includes
the tastes, experiences, likes and loves from his time in places such as Peru, Los
Angeles, and London. We are tired, but happy, Sodano shared. He was looking forward to
a break, which he plans to spend some of that time in Madrid working as an
intern with the prestigious chef Angel Leon.
I wondered, though, if Sodano was worried
about the upcomingMichelin guide? Would all the hard work that the the team be rewarded with a confirmation? He surely couldn't take it for granted. He’d have
to wait, like we all would, for the morning of the 6th of November when the
news would be broadcasted live.
Well, as my schedule /and poor wi-fi connection
would have it, I missed the live feed. Curious assai assai, I sent a message to Sodano.
Allora? Well? I asked.
Presa- got it ! was his response.
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| Antonio Cannoniero, Chef Francesco Sodano, Michela Barchetti, Chef Salvatore Sodano |
Fantasticaaa!!!
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