Exploring Campania's Holiday Pizzas, Foorn Soccavo, Naples (Na)

 

The holiday season has kicked off and what better time to start thinking about what is going to be popping up on our tables this period. In Campania a popular item is pizza, of course. I’m not talking about a pizza margherita or marinara. The other evening at Foorn Soccavo, in Naples, Italy, I hosted Le Pizze delle Feste -an event to discuss these robust pizza pies with a group of Neapolitans. Over a glass or two of wine, we tasted 4 pizzas, a sfogliatella riccia, and a panettone while sharing stories, recipes, and memories. By my side was the talented Chef Giovanni Erculanese. Here’s a bit of what went down. The first pizza that we tried was the pizza di scarola or pizza with escarole. Pizza di Scarola is a traditional Neapolitan dish that originated in Naples, Italy during the 18th century. It was initially considered a meal for the less financially fortunate, as it was made with the simple ingredients; The basic ingredients are pizza dough, escarole, capers, and black olives and just a bit of lard. Some recipes add raisins, pine nuts and even anchovies. It is usually served for lunch on Christmas Eve. Discussions were lively for this pizza. For many it brought back memories of their nonna/grandmother. Several guests admitted that they prefer to buy this specialty in bakeries because they do not have the time or patience. Myself included. I am definitely not a baker! Next- la pizza rustica. Pizza Rustica (also known as Torta Rustica) was traditionally served during Easter celebrations, made with leftover eggs, cheese, and meats that were previously prohibited during the Lenten season. The dish is a savory pie that includes ricotta, mozzarella, and cured meats like salami and prosciutto, although the filling can vary by region or personal preference. Some people prefer to add vegetables like spinach, while others add other cheeses like Parmesan or Pecorino. The pie's crust is typically a rich and buttery pastry, and it's baked until golden brown and crispy on the outside. Pizza Rustica is commonly served as an appetizer or antipasti platter during the holiday season. Another popular pizza during this period is called the tortano. This, as well as the casatiello are also popular during the Easter season, but has found its way to the Christmas table as well. Chef Erculanese expanded on this particular savory pizza pie. Tortano dough consists of flour, lard (or suet), pepper, eggs, and cicoli, each of which has a unique significance. Flour is the primary ingredient used in bread-making and is often referred to as the ultimate food. Eggs, symbolizing birth and even the shape itself has a religious meaning (tied to Easter). Its design mirrors the crown of thorns, symbolizing the sacrifice made by Christ. Next, pizza alla pala. Pizza alla pala is not your average Neapolitan pizza. Its distinctive rectangular shape sets it apart (hence the name, which translates to "pizza on a peel"). This pizza is prepared using more water and significantly less yeast than a traditional Neapolitan pizza, giving it a unique texture and flavor. We gobbled down one with mortadella and provola cheese. It was time for dessert- this is where we had a chance to try the popular sfogliatella. Hailing from the Amalfi coast of Campania and widely popular in Naples, Sfogliatella is a traditional Italian pastry renowned for its unique shell-like shape and flaky, multi-layered crust. The filling is typically made with ricotta cheese, semolina, candied orange peel, and cinnamon, and dates back to the 17th century when nuns created the pastry to support their convent. There are two varieties of Sfogliatella – 'riccia' (curly) and 'frolla' (shortbread) – with the majority of our group preferring the riccia version. These delightful pastries were provided by renowned Pastry Chef Salvatore Capparelli, who popular bakery and coffee is located in Naples' historic center. The evening closed with a bite of panettone, a sweet, Italian bread that is typically consumed during the Christmas season. We were served a piece made with wheat barley and little chunks of chocolate! Interesting to note that this bread, often with raisin, candied fruit, and almonds was born in Northern Italy. It has only become popular in the past several years in Campania-and the pastry chefs here have become quite good at it. An evening of Le Pizze delle Feste was not just a chance to taste some fantastic offerings from Foorn and Pasticcieria Capparelli, but it was also a time to share stories, memories, recipes, and laughs. Thanks Guido, Teresa and Giovanni and all the guests who came for creating the perfect mood. Proceeds from the event went towards the In the Kitchen Campania crowdfunding campaign.