Braceria Bifulco, Ottaviano (Na)
Franco Bifulco, Salvatore La Ragione, Ciro Catapano, Luciano Bifulco |
I chose a Saturday afternoon lunch to check out what had been going on since my last visit nearly a yar ago. A cold and very windy drive, which included a few snowflakes. About forty five minutes later I parked my car and met Luciano (Bifulco) in the store. He walked me to the Braceria next door where I was eager to sit down and let the degustazione begin.
Starting with the starters -
A beef tartare with broccoli greens...
beef carpaccio with puntarlle, a melanrca apple dressing, lemongrass, and fennel crumble.
Then a parade of appetizers such as ..
tuna caponata with tomato conserve, endive, and green sauce...
a deli tray with Bifulco's own salamis...
suckling black pig from Caserta slowly cooked with a Jerusalem artichoke sauce, spinach, and lemon confit...
lamb served three ways...
The braceria's appetizers gave the cooks a chance to display their talents with the arrays of sauces. I fell in love with the lemon confit.
Chef Catapano and I decided on three assaggi of first course dishes.
The first was a creamy risotto with ash roasted spring onions, melted pecorino cheese and spicy nduja.
For the second assaggio, I went to the kitchen for a quick chat as he prepared and plated up fresh pasta filled with creamy artichokes and buffalo milk ricotta. The pasta is topped with a burnt artichoke sauce.
Room for one more! Their classic ziti alla genovese with melanurca apples and pecorino cheese.
Luciano Bifulco would not let me leave without a taste of their steak - dry aged 120 days. Cooked perfectly ( little pink inside - that is the only way!).
Fantastic!
And dessert?
I limited myself to two. A twist on the classic tiramisu...
and pistachio and chocolate praline.
Lunch over - the staff asked me if I wanted to stay for dinner. I looked at my watch, had 4 hours really gone by??!!!
Maybe next time!
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