Osteria La Lanterna, Mugnano Del Cardinale (Av)
It was a refreshing
afternoon. Perfect for a lunch out. I wasn't
sure what to expect that day. Wasn’t
sure what to expect because it was my first visit to Osteria La Lanterna in
Avellino. I must admit the desire to visit this home-style restaurant has been
on my mind for quite a long time. I'm talking years. When I met Chef Luisa Evangelista
nearly 10 years ago and more recently bumping into Chef Stefano Parrella at various
events around Campania. However, good things come to those who wait they say
and I must agree that in this particular case, I totally agree.
Saturday afternoon March 9,
the drive on the autostrada all the way on the exit of Baiano. What do you do
the first time you visit an Osteria for the first time? There is the desire to try everything. I mean everything! At this point, self-control
must step in. I glanced at the menu –
chatted with Parrella and we both decided to go for the tasting menu.
Any allergies?
No…Bring it on!
First stop the mandatory and appreciated aperitifs. Aprtifs such as escarole and navybeans...
fried stuffed anchovies...
Then
appetizers -the first and exciting play on the artichoke. As an American,
though I've adopted Campania as my own; living here for nearly 26 years, I have
fully integrated artichokes into my diet. Here is La Lanterna’s version.
Like this one - 'roasted' and flipped upsidedown.
Next
step - codfish. Codfish wrapped in potatoes. A warm little package. A package
that would be a preview of what was to come.
A parade of warm comfortable comfort food without all the frills.
So then, it was time for the
first courses. Osteria La Lanterna’s tasting menu that afternoon provided two.
Risotto. I stood at the pass while Parrella put the final touches on this
particular dish. What a pleasure to experience the various combinations of
seafood and fruit that made this dish not only nice to look at but a pleasure
to my palate as well. Risotto with shrimp, pear, and pecorino cheese...
Then it was time for a spaghetti. I needed to be there at
the pass as he plated up.
The meal continued, this time for the second course.
Tuna known also as the pork of the sea. As well as lard. Lard from pork and who doesn't love that???
After the second course it was time to take a break. A break that a take often at this point in
the meal…
A break to not only walk off
what I had tasted before, but to reflect on what I had experienced until that
moment. Here- at La Lanterna – there was
no boss in the kitchen. No superstar. Instead a blend or fusion if you will of the
talent and experience of Luisa Evangelista and Stefano Parrella. Two personalities – two schools of thought –
who have developed a working relationship that is not only exciting but tasty.
Time for the pre dessert. That
small moment dining table designed to clean a pallet this one in particular up
as one of my favorites.
Cucumber, rosemary, lime and xtra virgin olive oil sorbet...fantasticaaa!
Then time for the dessert. I dipped my spoon into the
middle to grab a bit of everything. I did not expect the warm"love"from this particular dish. A melannurca apple pie, english cream, and buffalo milk ice cream.
A perfect example of how a desert should bring
memories not be intimidating and just be the perfect way to end a meal.
Meal over. I looked at my watch. 4 pm??!!!.
Wow! But the dining room was
still full. Only time for a quick chat
with Parrella and Evangelista at the friendship table.
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Then they headed back to work. They headed back into the kitchen; I headed
out to the gravel parking lot…towards the autostrada…towards home.
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