My Neapolitan Business Lunch, Mimi alla Ferrovia, Naples (Na)

Michele Giugliano and Salvatore Giugliano

I felt pretty prepared that day for my Neapolitan business lunch. I'd done my research, I made my reservation by email a couple of days in advance, and I even wrote the chef to ask if he would be available for a quick interview after lunch. I felt that I was ready for a midweek lunch at Mimi' alla Ferrovia just a skip, hop and a jump from the Naples main train station. A restaurant founded by Emilio Giugliano ( Mimi') in 1943 and has been serving classic typical Neapolitan cuisine without frills or fanfare ever since. It is a must for many- a first visit for me. I arrived exactly at 1 p.m. even though I did get lost on the way a cuople of times, (I'm a self confessed google maps illiterate) and I believe that I was one of the first to arrive. As I entered, I found a large bright dining room filled with history on the walls. Wow! Nearly every celebrity - politician, singer, actor soccer player etc -who had passed through the doors was smiling at me from the photographs on the walls. I felt pleasantly overwhelmed.

I was greeted right away by maitre Vincenzo Lamagna who gave me a choice of tables I chose one close to the window. And after a quick visit to the ladies room I was greeted by young chef Salvatore Giugliano and his father Michele. I was given the menu or better yet - I was givn a Neapolitan diary, a menu full of dishes that are the backbone to Neapolitan cuisine. I didn't know where to begin or what to choose. The chef said he would help me out.

First let's take a look at the catch of the day.


He led me to a counter filled with a variety of seafood that he had bought that morning. He goes shopping every morning for fruit, vegetables and fish.I haven't seen telline clams this large in awhile. What do you think, let's make a plate of spaghetti?

Fantasticaaa!

But first, a glass of falanghina wine and a series of antipasti -

ricotta with homemade strawberry jam

 Soon to be followed by a dish that I had hard about by mor than one Mimi' follower.  Their famous puparuolo 'mbuttanuto - a bell pepper stuffed with fior di latte, ham and cheese.

On that 'catch of the day' counter the chef also showed me some fresh anchovies.  He fried them, stuffed them with provola chesese and basil, then topped it with zucchini scapece - fried marinated zucchini.

Then...

Bonito fish with escarole, olives and citrus sauce.

 Once again, a dish from the pescato del giorno...

 Baby squid with baked daterini tomatoes, green peppers and provola chese foam.

Ready for the first courses! Remember those telline clams? Well, they arrived alla grande with a plate of spaghetti cooked al dente and a little bit of red chili pepper ( thank you!!!)

Then a mega ravioli stuffed with sea bass, lime, shrimp and squid sauce. Classic Mimi'!

An just when I thought it couldn't get any better, I was treated to an off menu pasta dish starring coccio aka gurnard fish with paccheri pasta. Thanks to a table nearby and Chef Giugliano -like any Neapolitan worth their salt - decided to stick true to this proverb...

Addo’ magnano duje ponno magnà pure tre.  Where there are two people to eat there is enough food even for a third person.

I'd like to take a pause here...because I feel it is important to mention not only the food, but to try to describe the feeling/the atmosphere I felt that Wednesday afternoon.  From my seat at the window, near the front door, it was impossible not to notice diners entering.  Some had reservations, some not...it didn't matter.  A table was available.  Businessmen, students, tourists.  Then the dining room - a Neapolitan symphony conducted by  Salvatore's dad Michele, his uncle Michele and Luciano Lamagna.  Each with their own style, their own personality, their own style made each table feel at home.  

Every now and then the chef would come out into the dining room - to chat with guests and even help clear the tables.  

After my first courses, he arrived at my table.  

Ready for your second course?  he asked.

More than ready.  We took a visit to the catch of the day table to pick out what I would like on my fried fish platter.  Together we chose anchovies, prawns, squid, and silver scabbardfish.

Time for a break and a quick look around the rest of the dining room.  I headed upstairs to check out the sala sopra that could seat up to 120 guests.  Elegant yet comfortable.

Souveniers from singer Lucio Dalla, also famous Neapolitan actors such as Toto' and Eduardo De Fillipo.

Nex stop was the dessert tray - or mini fridge displaying a wide variety of Neapolitan delicacies.  I couldn't decide between the pastiera a typical Easter pie or migliaccio - one popular around the Carnevale period.  Luckily for me the chef said I didn't need to choose.  He sent out an assaggino of both!

migliaccio on the left, pastiera on the right

Lunch over.  A quick caffe'...Neapolitan of course...and a quick walk to catch the train.  My Neapolitan business lunch was over.  But I knew I'd be back.  I mean, I hadn't tried their ragu...or pasta alla genovese...or...

Stay tuned!