Il Mosaico - Terme Manzi Hotel & Spa, Casamicciola Terme, Ischia
It's only about an hour's ferry ride from the Pozzuoli port to Casamicciola Terme in Ischia. I arrived at Terme Manzi Hotel & Spa a little after 12:00 pm. Too early for lunch just enough time to get a quick personal tour by Chef Enzo David himself. This was the third summer in a row that I have visited the chef in Ischia, but I was really excited about this particular visit. Because this was the first visit with Chef David in his new role as executive chef of this spectacular hotel. First stop? A look at the hotel's Bistrot Gli Ulivi, opened in the evenings. This restaurant is located on a lovely terrace and serves traditional Italian cuisine including pizza. Then the chef and I hopped in the elevator to the roof. To the Roof Garden Bouganville located a staircase away from the hotel's swimming pool. It was there that David and I sat down for a spritz and I was treated to a cool summer breeze and an array of finger foods.
Pre lunch chat over, we had one more stop - the hotel's Michelin star restaraunt - Il Mosaico. Chef David led me into the kitchen - impressive - where I got the chance to meet his brigade, including Sous chef Francesco Falanga - and sit down at the chef's table. It was there where my adventure began led by Maitre Folco Romano and Sommelier Francesco Iacono.
Chef Enzo David |
His welcome - sea bass sandwich with sea urchin mayonnaise; a quail egg with bernase sauce, truffle, and caviar; a mini vase 'puttanesca' style; tempura fried shrimp with a fake soy sauce; a cornetto served with an amberjack tartare, zucchini, lime and mint; a Bloody Mary with yellow datterino tomatoes, celery, a crunchy wafer, and buffalo ricotta cheese; and a crispy anchovy in panko bread crumbs stuffed with provola cheese and a red pepper sauce.
I was also treated to a sneek preview of the chef's dish for the upcoming event on the island, Ischia Safari. This particular appetizer is a flame cooked mackeral with torciuta escarole.
The chef told me that torciuta escarole is a typical island specialty. In dialect it means that the escarole is massaged with staples from the kitchen pantry such as anchovies, tomatoes and roasted peppers. The chef added a bit of barbecue sauce to help cut back on the bitterness of the escarole and to also give the fish a bit of smoky flavor.
I took advantage of my seat at the chef's table, not far from the pass, to check out what Chef David was up to next. It would be my second primo - his Risotto Orientale.
Risotto with sea kelp, crispy rice wafers, teryaki eel and lime. A little gold leaf to add a winning touch.
Then the chef gave me an opportunity to try his tortelli alla genovese dish - his version for 2019.
This version includes truffles, buffalo blu cheese fondue and burnt onion powder.
Time to stretch my legs a bit and head back to pass where I noticed that Enzo and his brigade were working on the main courses. First - his Codfish Evolution.
Carpaccio and
crunchy vegetables; eggplant baby filled with provola and tomato; a codfish
cappuccino with potatoes and black olive crumble; creamed codfish sandwich, mayonnaise with turmeric soy milk; a codfish croquette with herbs; and codfish in
smoked stew.
For my next dish, we decided to stick with the seafood theme - Sea bass.
The sea bass was cooked in biancolella grape leaves and a wine and percoche sauce. (Percoche are yellow peaches and it is common practice to pair them with a pitcher of white wine in the summer as a refreshing drink.)
Time for the final round - dessert. Il Mosaico's pastry chef is the young talented Carmen Peluso, who, alongside consultant Maestro Pasticcierre Antonino Maresca, has created a unique dessert menu.
We started, of course, with the predessert.
Essenziale - with capers, olive oil, lime and tomatoes.
Then I was brought a dessert called Arancione which is a tribute to the artist Kandinsky.
The dish features cream cheese, citrus and carrots.
Next I tried - La Via del Te'.
Four types of teas from four different areas, four different colors and four types of peaches.
And just when I thought there wasn't any more space, it was time for the after service chit chat. Served with a tangram of small pastries...
What a perfect way to end the day.
Famtasticaaa!
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